Greece
Jul 2022
1 month

Athens

Assured summer sun and plenty of Gyros.

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The capital and largest city of Greece is a fusion of ancient civilisation and modern metropolis.

It's cityscape is visually dominated by ancient landmarks, including the Acropolis. Today, Athens thrives as a modern metropolis, offering a plethora of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, and a lively nightlife scene.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

Ideal spot for a month-long stay during the European summer. Would revisit and aim for May or September.

🌎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

Ideal spot for a month-long stay during the European summer. Would revisit and aim for May or September.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

Ideal spot for a month-long stay during the European summer. Would revisit and aim for May or September.

👎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

Ideal spot for a month-long stay during the European summer. Would revisit and aim for May or September.

🛫
Euro (EUR)
3.1 Million
🏝️ Great for a holiday
💰 Great value
💻 Remote work hub

Summary

Having enjoyed a short stay in Athens a few years back, it was the ideal candidate for a trip in the the summer of 2022, where the main criteria was finding a location with assured summer heat.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
80
%

Considering it's status as a global tourist attraction, accommodation is still relatively affordable compared to other main European capitals, especially outside of the peak summer months.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
71
%

A solid selection of coworking spaces but perhaps not as many as you would expect from a city of it's size and stature. After viewing several, i was very happy with my choice of Stone Soup.

Like anywhere in Greece, there are an infinite array of coffee shops but wifi is not the most reliable so you would be best opting for a dedicated space.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%

Not many European capitals can compete with Athens when it comes to value. Eating out and drinking is well priced and there are no shortage of more sophisticated higher end options.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
78
%

For a city of its size and stature, Athens truly meets expectations in this regard. Especially during the summer months, when visitor numbers swell, the city has a lively ambience, with areas surrounding the Acropolis consistently busy.The pleasant nighttime temperatures encourage people to stay out late, enjoying the numerous dining and nightlife spots.In particular, Exarchia has a uniquely unpredictable and rebellious character, which contrasts well with the more sophisticated areas of the city centre.

Working hours

Greece is based in Eastern European Time, perfect if you are used to working in European hours, one hour ahead of CET.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
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🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Athens is enormous and unless you want to be spending a lot of time on the metro, you'd be best off considering options within walking distance to the centre.

Would avoid
Recommended
Exarcheia
A very unique, politically charged edgy neighbourhood, home to an array of food and nightlife options. Not uncommon for their to be protests or heavy police presence in the area. 10 minute walk to the centre of town.
Would avoid
Recommended
Kolonaki
Upmarket neighbourhood with several parks surrounding it. If i were to return to Athens, would stay here.

Where to work

Stone Soup Athens
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

I spent 6 weeks working from Stone Soup and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for space to work from within Athens. It's by no mean the sleekest or most polished space, but the team running it are great, there is generous desk space and it also has a large roof terrace which you have access to, giving incredible views over the city.

It's based in a great location in town and they often put on social nights, a great place to meet the international audience I found working from there.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Greece introduced a Digital Nomad Visa in 2021, allowing remote workers to reside for up to two years. From January 1, 2024, applications must be submitted through Greek consulates abroad, not in-country. The visa provides access to 26 Schengen countries but requires spending at least six months in Greece. Digital nomads can bring family members.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

Off work

Day trip to Agistri

Only a short ferry journey away from the main Pireaus port of Athens, Agistri is an ideal place to spend a day on the beach. The island has plenty of small shops to stock up on essentials and some restaurants for evening meals.

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Walk Areopagus Hill

Not many walks can beat this on an inevitably sunny summer's evening with incredible panoramic views across to the Acropolis.

Explore Stavros Niarchos Park

An enormous, green urban space situated in Kallithea, the park hosts regular free concerts throughout the summer. I caught early 90 hip-hop pioneers Arrested Development there on a sundrenched friday evening in 2022.

Run in Πεδίον του Άρεως

I'm not even going to begin to try and pronunce the name of this park but it is home to a range of outdoor exhibitions throughout the year, I visited the Plasmata exhibit several times which was definitely worth checking out. Also ideal for morning runs.

Duration & season

Having spent 6 weeks there, I would have no hesitations in recommending Athens as a summer destination. Even with temperatures routinely in the mid 30s, the heat was not too much of a concern, with AC availability widespread.

It's worth noting there is something of an exodus from the city in the month of August as Greeks head to the islands for summer vacations. You're better off swerving that period unless you are craving some form of urban isolation.

During the mid summer months there's no shortage of things to do in the city itself and there is an infinite number of islands to explore, reachable from the ferry port or by plane.

If planning on doing a lot hiking or exploring outdoors, you may be better off arriving before June, where the threat of wildfires puts many outdoor spaces out of bounds.

Food & drink

Πεδίον του Άρεως
·
Run
Perfect city park for early morning runs before the sun rises. Walkable from Exarcheia.
Athens City Loop
·
Walk
Athens is a big place. If you are a keen walker it's worth walking down from the centre to take in the sheer enormity of the city. Plenty of opportunities for iced coffees along the way.

People

As you may suspect, Athens is a year round global tourist destination pulling in people from all corners of the globe. There's a prominent remote working community in the city with the coworking space I worked from being a good mix of individuals from mainly across Europe within Greece. I found Athenians on the whole to be as a friendly and welcoming as you would expect from such a large touristic city.

Exercise

Πεδίον του Άρεως
Perfect city park for early morning runs before the sun rises. Walkable from Exarcheia.
keyboard_arrow_down
Athens City Loop
Athens is a big place. If you are a keen walker it's worth walking down from the centre to take in the sheer enormity of the city. Plenty of opportunities for iced coffees along the way.
keyboard_arrow_down
Πεδίον του Άρεως
Perfect city park for early morning runs before the sun rises. Walkable from Exarcheia.
Athens City Loop
Athens is a big place. If you are a keen walker it's worth walking down from the centre to take in the sheer enormity of the city. Plenty of opportunities for iced coffees along the way.

Verdict

Positives
  • A busy, international city.I found it an inspiring place to work from, with the buzz and vibrancy you would expect from a big city.
  • Assured great weather.With over 300 days of sunshine per year, you are assured some great weather over the summer months,
  • Good value.Food and dink is reasonably priced compared to other major Euroepan capitals.
  • International crowd.Athens draws in people from across Europe and the rest of the world making it a great place to meet others.
  • A great place to also plan a holiday from.If you are planning a summer getaway, you can quite feasibly be on a Greek island within a couple of hours.
Negatives
  • Super high density of toursits in the centre.Be prepared for swathes of loud Americans roaming the streets making their presence known.
  • It is super hot during summer.If you are planning on doing anything remotely strenuous outside, you want to make sure that it's done by 11:00.
Tips
  • If intending to hike in summer, check prior for forest fire alerts. The surrounding wildlife areas are high risk areas for forest fires. Several times I intended to make my way up only to turn back.
  • The metro is moderately fast and efficient. It has good coverage across the city and is relatively inexpensiv.
  • Lots of Athenians leave the city in August.If you are looking for a busy atmosphere during this period, you should look elsewhere or return in September.
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