holdall · Naha, Japan

Naha

Jun 2024

1 week

Summary

Summary

After a hectic week, as I had envisioned in Tokyo, I booked a week in Okinawa's capital as a fitting way to conclude the Japanese itinerary, blissfully unaware at the time of booking that this period coincides with particularly wet weather.

Accommodation

Bad

Good

Great

Naha was by far the best city I had visited in Japan for Airbnb options. There was a surprisingly good range of modern apartments, centrally located and very affordable, in complete contrast with other cities.

As with other destinations in Japan, it's well worth considering hotels, where prices are generally lower than what you would expect to pay for equivalent accommodations in Western Europe.

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New legislation

Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

Places to work

Bad

Good

Great

There are several options in the city but by no means is it a great destination for working from. I had a pleasurable week at .andwork okinawa which I've written about in greater details below.

If i was to return again, I would look for an Airbnb with a suitable working environment, or a hotel with a lounge or lobby to work from as whilst the options in the city are passable, unless you are dying to get out of the house, it's not worth the hassle.

Value

Bad

Good

Great

Prices were in line with the other destinations I had visited in Japan, with a particularly large number of inexpensive options for lunch. Walking around Makishi Market you can easily find small lunch boxes containing Rice, Fish and vegetables for 200 Yen (£1).

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The yen is currently at a 34-year low

While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.

View cost of living

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Excitement

Bad

Good

Great

There isn’t much happening in Naha, or across Okinawa in general. The population is more dispersed, and it resembles a series of interconnected towns without a true urban centre.

Compared to the metropolises of the mainland, this more relaxed pace of life makes it a considerably less appealing addition to your Japan itinerary if you're seeking an immersive experience. However, if you found Tokyo or Osaka overwhelming, this could be the perfect antidote.

Working hours

Japan observes Japan Standard Time (JST), which is 9 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). However, the time difference reduces to 8 hours during the summer months as Japan does not observe daylight saving time.This large gap in time zones has advantages and disadvantages, but planning a trip during the summer would reduce the likelihood of having to work past midnight to maintain alignment with European schedules.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?

I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.

Read article

Do you need to speak Spanish?

Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.

The center of the town is dominated by the Makishi Public Market, which extends in seemingly infinite directions with retailers selling clothes, groceries, plus bars and restaurants open late into the evening.

Naminoue Beach was the only real option I could find for sunbathing or swimming near the center of Naha. You're probably better off looking elsewhere on the island if intending to spend a lot of time at the beach.

Days with dismal scenes like this occurred a couple of times during my stay, which is not uncommon during the wet season. No fun at all.

Where to stay

Would avoid

Recommended

Naha

The largest of the towns on the island and probably your safest bet as somewhere to base yourself. That being said, if looking to make the most of the coastline, you may be better off exploring elsewhere.

.andwork okinawa

Would avoid

Recommended

Chatan

About a 30-minute bus ride from the center of Naha, this area is home to the American Village and, unsurprisingly, a large number of US military personnel. It actually has better coastline than Naha, so I would consider staying here as well.

Made in Chatan

Would avoid

Recommended

Yonabaru

I spent a wet afternoon here and would not recommend staying in the area. Very quiet, with infrequent and early-finishing buses to the centre of Naha.

Where to work

andwork Okinawa

Top Choice

☕️ Good Coffee

📍 Top Location

🥗 On Site Cafe

🧍Community Focused

⭐️ Quality Fit Out

🌳 Outdoor Space

After looking around at several other sites in the city, this seems to be your best option if staying in Naha. Located on the ground floor of the Estinate Hotel, they offer daily, weekly, and monthly working passes for using their ground floor lobby and lounge area.

A weekly pass costs 7,000 Yen (£35), while a single day pass is 2,000 Yen (£10), both giving you access from 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Although not a conventional office space, it makes for a surprisingly comfortable base with a few large desks and a central area with stools. There's an outdoor seating area, which is a good option on sunnier days.

Each pass includes three complimentary drinks throughout the day (only one being coffee) and a complimentary hour of free beer from 5:00 PM to 6:00 PM, which may come dangerously early in your work day. There's an on-site cafe specialising in tacos, ideal for evening snacks.

Some downsides are the lack of a dedicated area for sensitive calls and a noisier-than-ideal general ambiance. However, assuming you're a short-term visitor, neither of these should deter you.

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Other options In Naha

HAVE A GOOD DAY - This site only recently opened and looks like it could be an ideal work-oriented place. At the time of visiting, there was no one in the entire building, which led to a bit of an empty ambiance. It has great potential though, so I would suggest poking your head in for a walk around as it begins to gain traction. It closes at 20:00 in the evenings.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon

A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.

This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.

There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Japan has introduced a new digital nomad visa under its specified visa category, allowing remote workers to stay in Japan for up to 6 months.

Requirements include having an annual income over 10 million yen (around $65,000 USD), private health insurance, and being from an eligible country like the US, UK, EU, Australia, Singapore or South Korea.

Visa holders are not considered residents, cannot extend their stay beyond 6 months, cannot open bank accounts or access national healthcare system in Japan.

Visa length

Test information

Visa cost

Test information

Earning requirements

Test information

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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of October 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

‍Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

An exceptionally safe city.Even by Japanese standards, Naha is a particularly safe city. It's common to see bikes left unlocked across the city centre.

Off work

Visit Shuri Castle

Shuri Castle, a gusuku (Okinawan castle), served as the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom for several centuries. Perched atop a hill overlooking the city, its impressive red-tiled buildings showcase a unique architectural style blending Japanese, Chinese, and Okinawan influences.

It's worth noting that the castle is undergoing large-scale renovation works until 2025 due to a major fire in 2019.

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Eat at Kokusai Street Food Village

Great spot to sample a range of Japanese food and drinks once you've finished work. Situated to the East of the main Makishi Market, it's home to around 10 different casual restaurants and open until around midnight.

Duration & season

There is no case for visiting Naha in June, as the wet season can bring prolonged periods of rain. If you have a short amount of time, you don't want any days wiped out by heavy rain. You don't even benefit from the late sunsets that characterise this period in Europe, with darkness falling just before 7 PM.

March to Mid-May appeared to be the sweet spot to make the most of the warmer weather before the rains arrive.

If you're in Japan for an extended period, you could create a great 5-day holiday itinerary for the island as a whole. There's no need for more than a day in Naha itself. I enjoyed the week I spent there, but as a place to work remotely, there isn't enough attraction to draw you away from the larger cities of the mainland, unless explicitly wanting to make use of it's aquatic qualities.

Food & drink

YAMADA COFFEE OKINAWA

Tomari

Exceptional coffee roasted on site, with a variety of 6 different beans to choose from. Specialising in drip coffee, they also serve a range of small cakes and snacks. Well worth the walk from the centre of town.

Top Choice

Hyoukin

Izumizaki

Relaxed Izakaya serving a range of fish and meat based dishes with friendly and prompt service.

Top Choice

Tạp Hoá Việt

Makishi Market

Surprisingly authentic Banh Mi, with a range of other Vietnamese dishes. Vietnamese supermarket directly beneath it also if in need of any culinary supplies.

Top Choice

Tamagusuku Coffee Roasters

Matsuo

A wide range of international beans with a variety of roast levels. It was the first time I had ever seen Chinese coffee beans being served in an outlet.

Top Choice

Gorkarna

Sobe

Specialising in 'Spicy' Japanese curry, which is more similar to an Indian curry. Would recommend the Butter Chicken with Spicy Potato Salad (a bizarre combination but works well).

Top Choice

Chatan -> Naha Cosatal Run

Run

If you take the bus up to Chatan, this is a great route that will take you along the seafront, past the American Village and eventually back to Naha. The route is mainly uninterrupted, with plenty of places to stop for a coffee or water.

People

The presence of the US military base seems to attract more Americans than other places I saw within the country, especially in the area of Chatan, which is in close proximity to the base.

It's a popular tourist destination for Japanese from the mainland as well as neighbouring countries in Asia, so for such a small city, it has a remarkably international feel.

There was scant evidence of a remote work community; each of the coworking spaces I visited was practically empty, but this may have been partly due to it being the off-season.

Exercise

Chatan -> Naha Cosatal Run

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Chatan -> Naha Cosatal Run

Verdict

Positives

A contrast to the larger and more hectic cities.A much more manageable sized city means there is no chance you'll feel rushed off your feet.
Affordable and good quality accommodation options on Airbnb.It felt a lot easier to find a good quality apartment at a reasonable price here compared to other destinations in the country.
Ideal for water-based activities.If you are looking to spend time diving or surfing then this could be a great option.
Very well connected to the mainland.Domestic flights are frequent and cheap to lots of cities across the mainland.

Negatives

Not the most authentic Japanese experience.This makes it an interesting addition to a wider itinerary of the country but you wouldn't want to make it your sole destination in Japan.
You really need a car to get the most out of the island.Although the bus network covers most areas, it's slow and infrequent, particularly for reaching the northern parts of Okinawa.
A bit on the quiet side.Especially if you have been in Osaka and Tokyo, Naha will feel a little sleepy.

Tips

If arriving at the airport, take the monorail or bus into the city center.The buses accept VISA cards (not Mastercard) or cash, so ensure you have one of these payment methods with you.
The bus ticket system can be confusing.Once you board, get a ticket from the machine at the front. The fare depends on how far you travel. Watch the digital display above the driver to see how much you owe based on your ticket number.‍
Air Asia has started doing direct flights from Bangkok.The five hour flight makes it a convenient way of getting to the island rather than going via the mainland.

More from Japan

I loved everything about this trip to Japan. I've put together some thoughts on my entire stay in the country, which may come in handy if you are planning a visit soon.

Read article

Naha

Better known for tacos rather than kimonos.

Top Choice