Colombia
Sep 2024
1 month

Bogotá

Pack your umbrella

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
°C ·
[Description}

From Spanish colonial outpost to Colombia's vibrant capital.

Over the past 500 years, it has evolved into a major South American metropolis and a hub of politics, culture and commerce in the country and wider region.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

Even with so many positives, the city's inclement weather makes it somewhat tough to prioritise. It’s well worth incorporating into your itinerary and merits a prolonged stay if the weather doesn’t concern you.

🌎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

Even with so many positives, the city's inclement weather makes it somewhat tough to prioritise. It’s well worth incorporating into your itinerary and merits a prolonged stay if the weather doesn’t concern you.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

Even with so many positives, the city's inclement weather makes it somewhat tough to prioritise. It’s well worth incorporating into your itinerary and merits a prolonged stay if the weather doesn’t concern you.

👎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

Even with so many positives, the city's inclement weather makes it somewhat tough to prioritise. It’s well worth incorporating into your itinerary and merits a prolonged stay if the weather doesn’t concern you.

🛫
Colombian Peso (COP)
7.9 million
💰 Great value
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

I'd always envisaged visiting South America after making a concerted effort to learn Spanish for six months prior.

Sensing this degree of proactivity might never materialise, I booked a single flight to Bogotá to start a three-month journey through the continent.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
86
%

Airbnbs offer great value in Bogotá. With a budget of under £1,000 per month, you have an enviable selection of high-quality one-bedroom apartments in various parts of the city.

Prices generally tend to drop the further south you go, but any financial savings made are likely to be outweighed by the time spent commuting to the north.

Try to find somewhere with a dryer included, as apartments are unlikely to have central heating, making it arduous to dry clothes in low evening temperatures.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
85
%

With seven WeWork locations, numerous independent operators, and a glut of coffee shops, you should have no shortage of places to work.

While there are options dotted across the city, the main bulk of them are situated north of Chapinero, so plan your accommodation accordingly.

Unfortunately, the WeWorks in the city were among the most disappointing I’ve found internationally, so unless you have pre-existing access, I’d recommend exploring other options beforehand.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
88
%

If you are bringing dollars, euros, or pounds, Bogotá currently provides exceptionally good value.

Accommodation and dining out are dramatically cheaper than you might find in Western Europe and are often comparable to what you would expect in South East Asia. A lunchtime "menu del día" (consisting of soup, a protein item and a variety of sides) at local parrillas can be found for as little as $13,000 pesos (£2.50).

Casual meals at more modern international restaurants come in at around $40,000 pesos (£7), with coffee shops and bars generally around half the price of what you may expect to pay in London.

Considering the distance, direct flights from Heathrow via the national airline Avianca also came in at a very reasonable £350.

It's worth noting that average monthly salaries are substantially lower in Colombia, with local purchasing power being much lower.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
78
%

There's a lot going on in Bogotá. It's a mix of a busy contemporary working city with plenty of colonial heritage, natural attractions, and nightlife to keep you entertained.

Compared to the major capitals of Europe, it feels noticeably quieter, yet there's a consistent sense of life to the streets visible into the early evening, especially around the hubs of Zona T and Chapinero.

Two elements which don't work in the city's favour are the often inclement weather and persistent early sunsets, both of which hamper your ability to freely explore large parts of the city.

Working hours

Colombia Time (COT) is year-round GMT-5, placing it right on the edge of where you can comfortably work to maintain some overlap with European colleagues. I would generally start each day at 06:30 local time, finishing a couple of hours earlier than normal. For anyone maintaining North American hours, Colombia's position is ideal, aligning perfectly with Eastern Time during US Standard Time, and with Central Time during US Daylight Saving Time.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Heavy evening traffic is an inevitability across Bogotá, with the roads frequently becoming gridlocked during rush hour. Plan your commute around these busy periods to avoid unnecessary queues.
Heavy evening traffic is an inevitability across Bogotá, with the roads frequently becoming gridlocked during rush hour. Plan your commute around these busy periods to avoid unnecessary queues.
Reminiscent of a full English breakfast in terms of size and scope, the 'bandeja paisa' is surely a contender for the world's most filling meal. Consisting of rice, beans, ground beef, chicharrón, fried egg, plantain, avocado, arepa, chorizo and morcilla, one should arrive with an empty stomach.
Reminiscent of a full English breakfast in terms of size and scope, the 'bandeja paisa' is surely a contender for the world's most filling meal. Consisting of rice, beans, ground beef, chicharrón, fried egg, plantain, avocado, arepa, chorizo and morcilla, one should arrive with an empty stomach.
A rare clear sky in the early morning, looking north from the top floor of the WeWork at Cra. 12a #78-40.
A rare clear sky in the early morning, looking north from the top floor of the WeWork at Cra. 12a #78-40.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Bogotá has an unusual layout - the core of the city runs along a tall stretch beside the Cerros Orientales (Eastern Hills), which forms the eastern boundary of the city's perimeter.

With no metro (projected to open in 2028) and infamously bad traffic, it's a destination where you should be intentional about where to base yourself.

Would avoid
Recommended
Chapinero · Zona G
Where I stayed on my most recent trip, this area of northern Chapinero is renowned for it's wide range of high end eating and drinking options. Safe on the ground and walkable to other hubs such Zona Rosa.
Would avoid
Recommended
El Chicó
Calmer than Chapinero, El Chicó has a more upmarket and relaxed feel. If you are planning on working from a WeWork, it is equidistantly placed to 4 of the city's WeWorks. Nearby 'Parque El Virrey' is the best place within the inner city to run without dodging cars.
Would avoid
Recommended
Usaquén
If you are looking for a more residential location, the more southerly neighbourhoods of Usaquén (below Calle #112) are worth considering. The streets are calmer, and it is renowned for being a safe locality. With that being said, it results in a less vibrant experience.
Would avoid
Recommended
La Candalaria
There's no reason I could make for staying in the cities downtown area. Worth visting on the weekends for the abundance of museums and cultural sights, but for all other daily activities you'll be better off in the more modern (and safer) north of the city.

Where to work

WeWork - Calle 81 #11-08
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Out of the seven WeWorks in Bogotá, this one, despite its shortcomings, marginally gets the nod.

Situated in El Retiro and just a 2-minute walk from the Andino Mall, its location makes it easily accessible if you are staying in either Chico or Chapinero. You have somee great options for food and coffee within a couple of minutes’ walk, along with an in-house branch of Café 18.

Unfortunately, like each of the destinations I visited across the city, and by WeWork's normally 'ambient' standards, there are practically no quiet working areas. The All Access Desks are placed in the middle of the main common area for all the private offices.

The combination of tables swamped with groups of colleagues and the bass-heavy speakers can make it unbearably loud during the afternoons.

It’s fine if you are passing through town for a couple of weeks, but I would recommend exploring a non-WeWork alternative if you are planning a prolonged stay in the city. This site is likely to have all the seating capacity booked in advance, so if you plan to visit, I would suggest looking 7 days ahead to secure a seat for the day.

Other options in Bogota: 

WeWork #116 - Only really an option if you are staying in Usaquén. It is a relatively large but dark space with rather tired seating options.

WeWork #100 - This was comfortably the best actual office space WeWork had in the city, but its location makes it about a 1-hour walk if coming from Chapinero. It is the only location with a proper focused seating area, but there are limited options for lunch and coffee in the immediate vicinity.

WeWork #99 - Incredible views of the hills to the east of the city, but it’s insanely loud and busy, with the All Access area consisting of just a thin strip of tables on the top floor.

WeWork #78 - Potentially the most poorly equipped WeWork site I've visited globally. A selection of four small tables makes up the meaningful working area, only partially redeemed by exceptional panoramic views. The atmosphere is particularly uninspiring.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

The Colombia digital nomad visa offers an affordable route for remote workers seeking to live and work in Colombia. At $177, it's significantly cheaper than many similar visas, and applicants only need to prove a monthly income of at least $684.

The application process is straightforward: you'll need a valid passport, health insurance, an employment verification letter, and bank statements showing your income. Successful applicants are granted a two-year stay in Colombia and receive a foreign ID card, the Cedula de Extranjeria.

This ID allows holders to rent properties and set up mobile phone contracts, adding further convenience for longer-term stays.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • It's difficult to make general statements about how safe Bogotá is.Throughout the month, I walked extensively across large areas of the city and fortunately didn't encounter anything that would raise alarm. Most areas have a visible police presence with Comandos de Atención Inmediata dotted across most neighbourhoods. The northern, more residential part of the city is deemed to be safer but is not immune to issues. Following typical safety protocols at all times should leave you in good stead.
  • Surprisingly walkable in the early evening.Compared to somewhere like Cape Town, where sunset quickly removes all traces of life from the pavements, walking around the core arterial roads in Chapinero and Chico felt safe for the immediate hours after sunset. By no means should it be encouraged, especially in an area like La Candelaria, but you needn't necessarily be confined to a taxi on your way home from work or when grabbing dinner. Later on in the evening, or for any longer journeys, always use Uber.
  • Official hiking routes are secure and well policed.Monserrate is highly popular, especially at weekends, with police stationed along the stair path leading to the top. There are more secluded routes at Quebrada La Vieja, where police are still present but their presence is more dispersed. Assuming you stick to the official paths within the designated operating hours, you should minimise your chances of experiencing any issues.
  • If you are planning on dating, caution should be exercised.Stories of men who have been drugged and robbed throughout the country via the odourless drug scopolamine (locally known as Burundanga) have become increasingly common. This has led to the US Government producing official guidance on the matter, and dating site Hinge ceasing operations. With all this considered, its probably worth reconsidering the complementary Margarita offered to you on a night out.
  • If unsure about a location, keep an eye on Google Maps and Reddit.In lieu of knowing anyone on the ground, this is the best way to get an accurate feel for any recent flare-ups.

Off work

Check out the museums

Given the tendency of rain to make an unwelcome appearance, Bogotá's selection of over 50 museums provides a perfect way to spend any wet periods.

Whilst most are predominantly in Spanish, the Museo Nacional de Colombia is a great place to start, with 20,000 artefacts spread across a range of exhibitions exploring the country's colourful pre- and post-colonial history.

Other notable ones include Museo del Oro, Museo de Botero and Museo Colonial.

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Hike up Monseratte

If you fancy an athletic challenge, you should definitely consider the one-hour hike up to the Monserrate Monastery. The route is well-policed and incredibly popular at weekends, with hundreds of people ascending at any given time.

Try to go on a clear day to make the most of the panoramic views once you reach the top. If you're not feeling so adventurous, there is a cable car that takes you from the bottom.

Duration & season

You could pack all the historical and natural elements you need to see in Bogotá over two weekends, with plenty of time to explore the food and drink options during the work week. If you're in no rush, there's enough for a month's stay, especially if you're using it as a base to explore the rest of the country.

Due to the frequency of rain, I wouldn't recommend the September/October period, which, whilst bad, didn't appear unusual for the time of year.

December to March is generally considered one of the drier periods, with another window between July and August.

Food & drink

Quebrada La Vieja
·
Walk
Secluded trail which runs along a stream through deeply forested areas, with some great views of the city from the top. Be sure to book in advance, as access is only granted with a QR code sent to your email address.
Circunvalar Loop
·
Run
It's a challenging ascent to get onto the Circunvalar road from the flat in Chapinero, but it's worth following it along the top to get some panoramic views of the city before dropping into the top of 'Parque Nacional Enrique Olaya Herrera'.
Montserrate hike
·
Walk
Whilst short in distance, the hike up to Montserrate is challenging due to the immense altitude of the city. The route is secure with a police presence from top to bottom and with hundreds of others doing it simultaneously
Simón Bolívar Park
·
Run
One of the best places for uninterrupted running across the city, this large park is set against a big lake with a number of running routes going around it. It's worth passing through the smaller 'Parque de los Novios', which is en route if running from Chapinero.

People

For a country reputed to be popular with remote workers, there's little visible evidence of it on the ground in Bogotá. Apart from a few familiar faces at WeWork, I rarely saw other foreigners most days. If you're hoping to meet like-minded others, there is a small digital community through a couple of WhatsApp groups (#1, #2), but you'd be better off heading to Medellín or the coastal cities.

If you are interested in polishing your Spanish (or any other language), there is a weekly event called Gringo Tuesdays which doubles up as a language exchange/nightclub. I ended up there one night and it made for a remarkably good evening, surprising given the idea of such an event would usually make my skin crawl.

Exercise

Quebrada La Vieja
Secluded trail which runs along a stream through deeply forested areas, with some great views of the city from the top. Be sure to book in advance, as access is only granted with a QR code sent to your email address.
keyboard_arrow_down
Circunvalar Loop
It's a challenging ascent to get onto the Circunvalar road from the flat in Chapinero, but it's worth following it along the top to get some panoramic views of the city before dropping into the top of 'Parque Nacional Enrique Olaya Herrera'.
keyboard_arrow_down
Montserrate hike
Whilst short in distance, the hike up to Montserrate is challenging due to the immense altitude of the city. The route is secure with a police presence from top to bottom and with hundreds of others doing it simultaneously
keyboard_arrow_down
Simón Bolívar Park
One of the best places for uninterrupted running across the city, this large park is set against a big lake with a number of running routes going around it. It's worth passing through the smaller 'Parque de los Novios', which is en route if running from Chapinero.
keyboard_arrow_down
Quebrada La Vieja
Secluded trail which runs along a stream through deeply forested areas, with some great views of the city from the top. Be sure to book in advance, as access is only granted with a QR code sent to your email address.
Circunvalar Loop
It's a challenging ascent to get onto the Circunvalar road from the flat in Chapinero, but it's worth following it along the top to get some panoramic views of the city before dropping into the top of 'Parque Nacional Enrique Olaya Herrera'.
Montserrate hike
Whilst short in distance, the hike up to Montserrate is challenging due to the immense altitude of the city. The route is secure with a police presence from top to bottom and with hundreds of others doing it simultaneously
Simón Bolívar Park
One of the best places for uninterrupted running across the city, this large park is set against a big lake with a number of running routes going around it. It's worth passing through the smaller 'Parque de los Novios', which is en route if running from Chapinero.

Verdict

Positives
  • Warm, friendly, and approachable people.I can't recall many places where I felt so warmly welcomed throughout my stay. I lost track each morning of how many buenos días were both given and received.
  • Surprisingly walkable.For a city with such historical security concerns, navigating on foot felt remarkably safe, with a strong police presence throughout each district.
  • Excellent coffee.As you would expect from Colombia's capital, there is no shortage of domestically produced, high-quality coffee available across the city.
  • Enjoyable local and international cuisine.Hearty and filling regional foods are well represented across the city, with most international cuisines available, including a surprising number of options from East Asia.
  • Comfortably off the main tourist/digital nomad path.I was actually shocked at just how few Europeans or North Americans I encountered during the month. For better or worse, Bogotá rarely felt like an international tourist destination.
  • Tremendous value.If you are arriving with a European or North American salary, everything is exceptionally affordable and generally a comparable quality to what you may expect at home.
  • Hiking on the doorstep of the city. The hills that characterise the eastern edge of the city allow you to escape into nature when needed.
  • Craft beer is everywhere.Artisanal cervecerías can be found in vast number throughout much of the city. Bruder, Macha and Patria are all worth a visit.
  • The city's tacos deserve an explicit call-out.Even more ubiquitous than the craft beer, Bogotá has an incredible range of taquerías. Some of the best I sampled where at El Pantera, El Pastorcito, Tacos Baja California and El Master.
Negatives
  • The weather is, at best, underwhelming.The duration of my trip felt like a particularly bad period, with most days featuring some form of rainfall, usually occurring after midday. The weather forecasts are routinely incorrect, with rain appearing and lasting for as long as it feels on any given day. If you are looking for euphoric blue skies and the ability to confidently plan outdoor excursions, you would be better off looking elsewhere. If you are susceptible to the cold, be sure to bring warm clothes, as central heating is not commonly found in residential properties.
  • Not the prettiest of cities.While the city is not without its architectural charms, particularly the older colonial buildings of La Candelaria, much of the city's building stock is a mix of 20th-century red brick and concrete. Paired with the often cloud-laden sky, it doesn't make for the most appealing cityscape.
  • The sunsets occur around 18:00 year-round.Given that you are better off limiting your explorations on foot at night, this leads to a consistently early end to the days in the city.
  • Hiking requires some planning.Due to conservation efforts, you need to book access to the trails in advance using a (terribly designed) government portal ,which are often oversubscribed. During wet periods, it appeared not possible to book at all. If you can get through, you will get provided with a QR code which allows you access at the entrance. Even though you have to specify a particular time for arrival, it appeared loosely enforced.
Tips
  • The physical impact of elevation is real.Its effect may vary from person to person, but even for someone in relatively good cardiovascular health, you may want to wait a few days before physical exertion and gradually build up before attempting any hikes.
  • If you are new to the city or arriving late at night, consider using 'Imperial Taxi.'There is a small concession stand in the airport manned 24 hours a day where you can book a private car to your apartment or hotel. If you don't have pesos readily available or any data on your phone, this counter service offers a fixed price, payable by card, saving you from haggling in Spanish. Uber operates in an unofficial capacity within the country, which can cause issues with pickups at the airport. Elsewhere in the city, Uber works flawlessly without issue and with low fares.
  • There is widespread availability of cards in businesses of all sizes.Aside from purchasing an Arepa or a Chorizo Colombiano from a street vendor, there are very few places where you'll need cash. Even so, it's worth carrying around a few thousand pesos. A UK Monzo card worked flawlessly, with about a £3 charge to withdraw from most ATMs.
  • Tipping is generally managed through the inclusion of a Propina Voluntaria.In most places, you will be cheerfully asked if you would like to add the voluntary service charge of 10%. This further reduces the need to carry cash or calculate a reasonable tipping amount.
  • Most museums are free on the last Sunday of the month.If you plan to visit several at once, this is a great way to see many simultaneously, with many located around the La Candelaria area.
  • It’s best to avoid public transport.The TransMilenio service appears to be well-run and extensive, but according to various sources, it's not renowned for its security for foreigners. Routine trips via ride-hailing apps like Uber rarely exceed £3, making their use unnecessary.
  • A physical SIM card from Claro offers significantly better value than eSIM equivalents.These can be purchased in-store without the need for a passport or ID.
  • Stark Smart Gym offers a one month pass.Their outlet near Zona G in Chapinero is clean, spacious and modern. A one-month pass can be obtained for a reasonable $195,000 Pesos.
  • Rappi & DiDi Food are the main options for food delivery.Well worth the $4,000 pesos when using Rappi for the 'Turbo' option to get exclusive delivery of your food. The combination of evening traffic and drivers doing multiple stops means 60 min+ waits are not uncommon.
There appeared to be an enormous amount of cultural events planned throughout the year, this theatrical fire display was shown for free in Parque de la Independencia as part of FIAV Bogota. Check out what is going on this week at https://bogota.gov.co/que-hacer/agenda-cultural
Considering you are at an elevation of 8,000ft+ and practically on the equator, much of the aesthetic of the city is entirely unremarkable. Many residential areas in the north could be mistaken for Europe.
Even by damp British standards, the rainfall in Bogotá was a consistent and unwelcome feature of most days. Weather forecasts are fickle, making it difficult to plan for any outdoor adventures.
From 7 am to 2 pm every Sunday, 76 miles of streets are closed across the city for 'Ciclovía'. The car-free streets with a marked security presence make it an excellent time to explore on foot or by bike. A road named the 'Séptima' runs through Chapinero to La Candelaria and is a great way to traverse the city.

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