Chiang Mai
All of Thailand's best bits - with none of the sleaze.
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Located 700km north of Bangkok in a valley on the edge of the Daen Lanna Mountain Range, the city's historic centre maintains its distinctive original moat and portions of the old city walls, home to over 300 temples built throughout its history.
If you're looking for somewhere to blend both city and nature, there are few better options globally. Still a great destination in 2025.
If you're looking for somewhere to blend both city and nature, there are few better options globally. Still a great destination in 2025.
If you're looking for somewhere to blend both city and nature, there are few better options globally. Still a great destination in 2025.
If you're looking for somewhere to blend both city and nature, there are few better options globally. Still a great destination in 2025.
I previously visited Chiang Mai for three nights during a 2017 SE Asia trip. While I enjoyed it, I wasn't compelled to return - compared to Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi, it lacked the pizzazz and energy of the region's major cities.
As a historically popular destination for remote work, much has been written about how it's not what it was - now too busy, increasingly gentrified, a victim of its own success. Seeking somewhere to make the most of some free time over Christmas/New Year, I thought I'd give it another shot.
Even though it lacks Bangkok's oversupply of modern condo towers, accommodation is still great value across the city, even during the high season when demand is at its highest. For as low as £600 per calendar month, you'll be able to find a quality studio or one-bedroom apartment on Airbnb. Compared to Bangkok, you'll get a lot more for your money.
I would happily return to either of the apartment blocks I stayed in:
D Vieng Santitham - A calm, modern apartment block situated in a residential area about a 25-minute walk from the centre of Nimman. Good quality small gym and well-maintained pool. On a motorbike, you can be at the Maya shopping centre in just over 5 minutes.
Hillside Condo 3 - An older, yet well-maintained apartment block, situated just off the main road in Nimman. Lacking some of the modern amenities you might expect in more recent buildings, but it was impeccably clean. Location was perfect if working from a coworking space nearby.
During my stay over New Year, the lower daytime temperatures meant having access to a pool didn't feel quite as imperative as it does in Bangkok. There are several pool cafes you can access for relatively low costs across the city, so I wouldn't prioritize necessarily having one as part of your accommodation.
For a city of around 130,000 people, there's an incredible density of coworking spaces across Chiang Mai. While the area of Nimman has the highest concentration, you'll find options spread across the city. I opted for Nim Space, which I've written about further below.
The sheer abundance of coffee shops, many of which are open until 22:00 and beyond, present viable options for getting work done, with most offering Wi-Fi access with purchases.
Many of the spaces are smaller than what you'd find in a major city and can reach capacity quickly. If you're working European hours and starting later in the day, you may struggle to find a hot desk, as venues often fill up during morning hours. If you have your eyes on a certain space, enquire as far in advance as possible, especially if travelling during the high season.
I have a tendency to agonise over finding the right place to work from, so I visited several options during my first week:
Yellow - The largest and most famous. I had a quick scan around but something didn't quite click with it for me. Something about the space felt somewhat depressing. The air conditioning wasn't particularly strong, the interior felt a little tired and you could sense the potential for the desk space reaching an uncomfortable capacity. One of the more expensive options where the premium didn't quite seem worth it. Worth popping by, but keep in mind there are (numerous) alternatives.
Alt_ChiangMai (Old City) - Stylish, quiet, professional space in a particularly peaceful street within the Old Town. I would have signed up on the spot, but they were at capacity until the second week of January. They have another site closer to the Ping River on the other side of town which is also worth considering.
The Brick - Would have happily worked from here, but the hot desks were all full by 1pm. Worth considering if starting early in the day and don't need the security of a consistent desk.
CAMP - The Maya Shopping Centre features a free coworking facility on its top floor, which is popular with local students, with two hours of internet provided with a drink purchase. For a free space, it's impressive. But as it's deathly quiet and if you'll be on calls throughout the day, it's not a viable option. A handy option if you need somewhere to focus for a few hours.
Buri Siri Hotel - I ended up working from here for a day over the New Year holiday while a lot of places were closed. For a very reasonable 150 THB (£3.60) you get a day of coworking and a complimentary drink. Wouldn't consider it for long-term but absolutely fine for a day, plus you can pay a small surcharge to use the pool. Food from the restaurant was tasty and reasonable value.
Punspace Tha Phae Gate - Realistically this was too far from Nimman for a daily walk but it looked a large, airy and spacious option with solid reviews online. Worth checking out if in the area.
Chiang Mai remains almost incomprehensibly good value in 2025. Expect to pay as little as 50 THB (£1.20) for a freshly cooked meal in a modest street-side local restaurant, such as Pad Kra Pao or a simple noodle dish. If you love Thai food and have a stomach that can handle generous amounts of oil, you could quite happily eat at such places throughout your stay.
From my experiences across Thailand, an increase in price rarely guarantees better food quality. Spending more typically means better facilities, air conditioning and service, rather than tastier dishes.
Speciality coffees start from around 60 THB (£1.45), with cakes and pastries around 100 THB (£2.40). Domestic beers in casual bars cost around 100 THB (£2.40).
Like anywhere in Thailand, if you want to burn through money, there are plenty of opportunities to do so. Bills can quickly rack up with imported craft beers and more refined international dining carries a premium.
The rest of your day-to-day expenses remain exceptional value. An hour-long Thai massage costs around 300 THB (£7.20), quality bicycle rental 250 THB (£6), and most motorbike journeys across the city under 100 THB (£2.40).
These low costs are almost always a direct result of local wages being very low. While tips aren't expected, they're always warmly received, no matter how seemingly small the amount.
If you're expecting a big-city experience, you should temper your expectations. While Chiang Mai has its own energy, it's markedly different from the intensity of larger Asian cities. The city fully embraces a slower pace of life, offering a stark contrast to Bangkok's urgency and frequent chaos.
I had chosen it partly to make the most of time off over Christmas and New Year, planning to spend time hiking and cycling before 2025 kicked into motion. For these purposes, it proved ideal. If you're planning on making the most of the outdoors, the trade-offs feel worthwhile.
The cooler climate and proximity to Doi Suthep-Pui National Park open up opportunities that are rare in Southeast Asian cities. Going on a leisurely Tuesday hike under the morning sun in mid-January is the type of benefit that reminds you just how liberating remote work can be.
With these reasons in mind, I'd recommend it to anyone seeking a more sedate pace of life in Thailand.
Based in Indochina time, during the winter months, Thailand is 6 hours ahead of Central European, dropping to 5 during the summer.
While this is a significant time difference, adapting your daily schedule can make it manageable, especially if you have some flexibility with your working hours.
While the core of the city is relatively compact, it's worth paying attention to where you plan to stay, with each area having distinct characteristics and attracting different demographic groups.
All areas listed below are within an hour's walk of each other, or a 10-minute journey by motorbike.
If you turn up to Nim Space, there's a good chance there will be no one working there who can assist you with registering. If you manage to contact them on their Facebook page, you may wait days, if not longer, for a response.
From what I could ascertain, the owners leased commercial office space in the building and, in order to offset costs, attempted to run a coworking space in the communal areas. But you get the impression they have run out of energy and lack the inclination to properly follow through on this concept, leaving a somewhat neglected, semi-functional operation.
You are probably reading this and wondering why on earth, out of all the coworking spaces in the city, would you choose such a place?!
1 - It's in a great location on the main street in Nimman - and was conveniently a 60-second walk from my apartment. Numerous coffee shops and restaurants surround it.
2 - It's open 24 hours a day, with access provided by a face recognition system on the door.
3 - The A/C was powerful and easily adjustable.
4 - It was deadly quiet - there was only a maximum of 5 other people using a space which could comfortably fit up to 20. Everyone else working there was considerate and a pleasure to talk to.
5 - The internet speeds were rapid.
6 - The people who appeared to be running it in the adjacent office were warm and friendly.
7 - The desks and chairs were decent quality, with plenty of space.
8 - They offer plans by the week, at competitive prices.
I visited many other places beforehand and nowhere else came close to ticking each of these boxes.
If you are looking for a vibrant 'community' feel and a place to use as a base to make mass social connections in the city, forget it.
But if you want a comfortable, calm and professional space, look no further. Given how poorly they advertise the space, it's unlikely it will ever reach anywhere near capacity.
Thailand's Digital Travel Visa (DTV) is a 5-year programme aimed at remote workers, requiring proof of income (500,000 THB annually) and evidence of remote work status.
The visa operates on a multiple-entry basis, allowing stays of up to 180 days per entry throughout the 5-year validity period. A 6-month extension is possible. At £300, it's considerably more affordable than other long-term visa options.
To apply, you'll need to provide either an employment contract or professional portfolio that demonstrates your remote work status. The income requirement stands at 500,000 THB annually, and you'll need to submit proof of this alongside standard immigration requirements like a valid passport and clean criminal record. The application fee is £300.
A hike you should definitely consider making time for during your stay in Chiang Mai. Doi Suthep-Pui National Park sits immediately next to the western edge of the city, with Wat Phra That Doi Suthep - a 14th-century temple perched atop the mountain at 1,073 metres elevation.
I started at a point marked 'Monk's Trail' on Google Maps, which takes you past Wat Pha Lat, nestled in the forest. From there, it's a steep ascent up stairs carved into the dirt ground. While the hike is relatively short at around 4-5 kilometres, there are some challenging steep sections. If you don't fancy working up a sweat, you can easily take the paved road up at any point.
Once at the top, you're rewarded with panoramic views of Chiang Mai city and can freely explore the temple. It's considered one of Thailand's most sacred sites, and you'll often see both local worshippers and tourists climbing the recognisable staircase to reach the temple complex. Plenty of vendors can be found around the site for a light meal, coffee or juice.
You can descend via an alternative route through Montha Than Waterfall, where the paths are quieter and less clearly marked. KonJohn Coffee Slowbar was an ideal place to to finish up for a coffee before heading back into the city.
Best to start early in the morning to avoid both the heat and the crowds, and remember to bring appropriate temple attire (covered shoulders and knees) if you plan to visit either wat. Small buses run from the city centre to the temple, if you don't fancy the walk.
Christmas and New Year felt an ideal time to be in the city. During the dry season, which runs from November to February, there wasn't a single day of rain and nothing but wall-to-wall sun throughout. Around New Year's Eve, there was a noticeable spike in how busy the city felt, though this never felt overwhelming.
The 'burning season' runs from February to April and is widely considered the worst time to visit due to poor air quality from agricultural burning practices across the region. Tourist numbers typically drop throughout this period. I spoke to several people who planned to stay during this time, but the general consensus was that it's best avoided.
The rainy season from May to October is considered the off-season, with short bursts of daily rain expected, peaking in August and September. The brief, predictable nature of the rain means it's not necessarily debilitating, but may hinder outdoor exploration due to muddy footpaths.
If it's your first time in the city, visiting during the high season will give the best impression and the greatest opportunity to explore the outdoors. The higher costs during this period aren't particularly significant by international standards.
If you're on a time-restricted schedule, you could experience everything you need to in two weeks. If not, there's enough to enjoy for a relaxed month or longer.
Chiang Mai certainly lives up to its reputation as a remote work hub. Expect to hear Russian, Australian and practically every European accent well represented across its coworking spaces. Similar to Bangkok, I found myself naturally connecting with more people than practically anywhere else I've visited.
Compared to cities such as Lisbon or Medellin, which are often cited for the negative impact on local economies from heavy influxes of remote workers, it didn't feel as much of a concern here. Instead, it feels as if it's just another varied and welcomed strand in the city's well established history of tourism.
While you'll find an international mix across the city, certain areas appear to draw particular groups more than others. Nimman is especially popular with Korean and Chinese tourists (partly due to visa relaxation laws with the latter), with European and North American backpackers more likely to be found around Tha Phae Gate.
There's no denying that it's a city heavily geared towards tourism in every sense. Much of the city's industry revolves around satiating that tourist appetite (does Nimman really need 20+ coffee shops?!). Prior to visiting, I'd read a lot about it feeling overdone in that regard. Personally, I didn't feel it was that bad.
Of course, you encounter people obtrusively waving around selfie sticks. Certain flavour-of-the-month restaurants will attract staggeringly long queues. Popular night-time venues like The North Gate Jazz Co-operative seem to attract foreigners like moths to a flame.
But you can opt-out of this. It's all easily avoidable. There are small pockets of intense tourist saturation which soon dissipate within a five-minute walk.