South Africa
Dec 2023
2 Weeks

Johannesburg

The city of gold, large electric fences and an abundance of trees.

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
°C ·
[Description}

South Africa's "City of Gold" traces it's origins back to the late 19th century when gold was discovered in the area.

Today, the city serves as the economic and financial heart of South Africa, offering a vibrant mix of modern skyscrapers, historical landmarks, and diverse cultural experiences.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If heading to Cape Town, it's worth extending your trip for a couple of days of leisure or working there for a week. Otherwise, wouldn't prioritize it.

🌎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If heading to Cape Town, it's worth extending your trip for a couple of days of leisure or working there for a week. Otherwise, wouldn't prioritize it.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If heading to Cape Town, it's worth extending your trip for a couple of days of leisure or working there for a week. Otherwise, wouldn't prioritize it.

👎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If heading to Cape Town, it's worth extending your trip for a couple of days of leisure or working there for a week. Otherwise, wouldn't prioritize it.

🛫
Rand (ZAR)
5.635 million
💰 Great value

Summary

After a 10-week trip to Cape Town and without venturing beyond the Western Cape region, I felt the need to experience another part of South Africa to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the country.

Having only heard (rightly or wrongly) negative things about Durban, I opted for Johannesburg. My prior knowledge of the city was limited to it being a large, crime-ridden metropolis.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
77
%

There isn't quite as an impressive array of options compared to Cape Town, but good value accommodation can be found in most of the suburban areas and especially in those close to the main commercial hubs of Rosebank and Sandton. 

You should be able to find a great quality apartment for under $1,000 per month with more demand for places coming between the peak months of November to February.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
78
%

You'll find a decent number of coworking spaces across the city, with most of them centered around the commercial centers of Rosebank or Sandton. Workshop 17 offers a variety of top-quality options around the Rosebank area and would top my list for exploring.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
81
%

Very similar prices to Cape Town, making it an affordable destination if coming from Western Europe. Eating out is relatively affordable and transport around town is easy thanks to inexpensive ride hailing options.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
57
%

My experience of Johannesburg was somewhat tainted by visiting during the Christmas period, when the exodus from the city made it feel like a ghost town.

However, there are some fundamental qualities about the city that remain relevant for any visit. If you are staying (as advised) in the northern suburbs, that is exactly what they are. Rosebank and Sandton are urban centres, but they are primarily large shopping malls with some office spaces.

Would visiting the CBD be more exciting? From everything I read, any excitement you might encounter there could be of the unwelcome kind.

Working hours

South Africa is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT+2); South Africa doesn't operate daylight saving time, so there's no time difference between the summer and winter months.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
A view from the 11th floor of Workshop 17 looking over the northern suburbs.
A view from the 11th floor of Workshop 17 looking over the northern suburbs.
Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton.
Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Like most places in South Africa, it's worth thinking deeply about where you want to base yourself throughout your stay. Unlike Cape Town where the CBD is a viable option for living, all reasonable advice would suggest you avoid it here.

Would avoid
Recommended
Rosebank
I would 100% return to Rosebank if I were to return - everything you need is on your doorstep and it is equidistant between Sandton and the CBD. Safe, secure and vibrant.
Would avoid
Recommended
Melville
A popular suburb, but having visited I would see no reason to stay there, with a lack of any places to work from in the immediate vicinity.
Would avoid
Recommended
Sandton
The new commercial centre of the city, Sandton is home to numerous high rise office blocks and a large mall. A safe, modern area, but lacking any distinct character.
Would avoid
Recommended
CBD
You'd struggle to find anyone suggesting you should stay or even set foot in the CBD. An embodiment of urban decay, most commerce has subsequently moved to Sandon.
Would avoid
Recommended
Braamfontein
Close to the CBD and adjacent to Hillbrow, it felt noticeably less secure than the more suburban neighbourhoods to the north. Some night life options, but no reason to stay there.

Where to work

Workshop 17 - Rosebank Fire Station
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

This particular outlet of the popular nationwide chain is based adjacent to the Rosebank Mall, with the ground floor still operating as a (remarkably quiet) fire station.

Hot desking is spread out over the 10th and 11th floors providing panoramic views of the green northern suburbs of the city, with cafes both inside the working space and on the ground floor of the building. 24/7 access is available via the security entrance.

The quality of the fit out is top notch, with large spacious desks and comfortable chairs. Meeting pods are dispersed throughout each floor.

If only there for a short time, they may consider offering you a pro-rata'd monthly rate, which comes in less expensive than multiple day passes. Helpful and friendly team running both the building and the office itself.

Learn more open_in_new
Get one month free on a 12-month commitment
Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.
Learn more open_in_new

Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

In April 2022, South Africa announced plans for a digital nomad visa to attract more foreign visitors and boost its economy following the impacts of COVID-19 travel restrictions. The proposed visa will allow remote workers, freelancers for foreign companies, and business owners to stay in South Africa for an extended period, initially one year with the possibility of renewal.

While foreigners can currently stay for 90 days, the digital nomad visa aims to enable longer stays. It will also include attractive provisions for dependents of visa applicants. However, full details are still forthcoming as the visa is not yet available. Updates will be provided once more information is released by South African authorities.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • Safety varies enormously where you are in the city.It's difficult to make meaningful overall statements about the city due to the high variance of crime rates. Areas like Yeovllie and Hillbrow are highly insecure and especially as someone unfamiliar with the city, should be outright avoided.
  • The Northern Suburbs generally felt safe to walk around.During the day time, there are security guards periodically dotted around street corners and private security vans are routinely monitoring the streets. This presence noticeably drops off from the late afternoon onwards. Even though it feels safe, take precautions, keep your headphones out and stay vigilant.
  • Running in these areas also felt safe.In the early mornings and before sunset you are likely to see lots of other people on the road, especially near the parks.
  • Uber & Bolt are essentials.Throughout the city they were reliable, inexpensive and frequently available.
  • The Gautrain is considered to be reasonably safe.I didn't use it as Ubers were so convenient, but having read up about it, is considered to be a well maintained and secured piece of infrastructure. For certain routes, including getting to and from the airport, it could be a viable option.
  • Electric fences are everywhere.Most residential buildings feature substantial gates and high walls, with electrified fences all along their high-gated perimeters.

Off work

Apartheid Museum

The Apartheid Museum, established in 2001, serves as an unparalleled museum, emphasising the narrative of apartheid's emergence, progression, and eventual dissolution acoss South Africa.

Learn more open_in_new
No items found.

Duration & season

December saw a bizarre mix of intense heat, dense cloud cover and the occasional hailstorm. Sometimes all in one day. Compared to Cape Town, there were few clear days and given it's more northern latitude, has a noticeably earlier sunset.

There was a progressive emptying out of the city from the 12th December onwards as people made their way out of the city for Christmas, making it something of a ghost town by the 25th. If you are planning a visit, I would outright avoid this period due to shop closures and a real lack of ambience.

Two weeks was plenty of time and there was nothing remaining on my list after that period. It would be hard to make a compelling argument for why you should stay any longer than one month unless you have specific cause to be there.

Food & drink

Delta Park
·
Run
Large, hilly, open park bordered by several good neighbourhoods. Running here felt relatively secure during the early morning with several other people out jogging and walking dogs.
Botanical Gardens
·
Run
The park borders the Emmarentia Dam, an artificial lake featuring canoes and fishing. What felt like one of the most safest areas to run in.
Zoo Park Lake
·
Run
Situated to the North West of the Zoo, the lake and surrounding parks are another good place to run. Less prominent security than at the Botanical Gardens.

People

In a similar vein to Cape Town, I had a thoroughly positive experience of everyone I met in Johannesburg. South Africans are drawn from across the country mainly for work, while also attracting workers from neighboring African countries and further afield with a sizeable Chinese community.

There were no discernible signs of a remote working community within the city. That being said, there is a reasonable number of expats in the city and people visiting the city for work due to its status as an international hub for commerce.

Exercise

Delta Park
Large, hilly, open park bordered by several good neighbourhoods. Running here felt relatively secure during the early morning with several other people out jogging and walking dogs.
keyboard_arrow_down
Botanical Gardens
The park borders the Emmarentia Dam, an artificial lake featuring canoes and fishing. What felt like one of the most safest areas to run in.
keyboard_arrow_down
Zoo Park Lake
Situated to the North West of the Zoo, the lake and surrounding parks are another good place to run. Less prominent security than at the Botanical Gardens.
keyboard_arrow_down
Delta Park
Large, hilly, open park bordered by several good neighbourhoods. Running here felt relatively secure during the early morning with several other people out jogging and walking dogs.
Botanical Gardens
The park borders the Emmarentia Dam, an artificial lake featuring canoes and fishing. What felt like one of the most safest areas to run in.
Zoo Park Lake
Situated to the North West of the Zoo, the lake and surrounding parks are another good place to run. Less prominent security than at the Botanical Gardens.

Verdict

Positives
  • Not as dangerous as you may fear.Compared to all of the hysteria surrounding crime in the city, the suburban areas, whilst not immune to trouble, are relatively safe and pleasant places to base yourself.
  • An unexpectedly green cityscape.With over 10 million trees supposedly in the city and 600 parks, it is far from the concrete jungle I anticipated, with it laying claim to be the world's biggest urban forest. The parks and outdoor places make for good places to explore over the weekend.
  • Lots of good options for food and drink.An even match with Cape Town when it comes to eating out, with a vast variety of International cuisines well catered for.
  • A regional and international hub.People are drawn to Joburg for work and you are likely to meet people from across the country who have relocated there. There is a saying that people "Come to Joburg to earn their money, but go to Cape Town to spend it".
Negatives
  • An unstimulating experience in your free time.Even though you are visiting the largest city in the country, there's a very high chance you'll be staying in the quiet, safe but rather dull suburbs. Compared to Cape Town where the CBD is a viable option to stay and explore, that is not the case here.
  • Limited routes for walking and exploring on foot.In Cape Town you can comfortably walk for several miles with a good degree of ambience of people around you, with coffee shops and restaurants to explore. In Joburg, you are likely to be walking from suburb to suburb along seemingly endless residential streets, providing to be both underwhelming and also from a security perspective, isolating.
  • No real remote work community.If you are looking to prioritise meeting other people in a similar position, you can safely cross this off as a destination from your list.
  • Highly temperamental weather.My time overlapped with what is considered to be peak summertime, yet most days were cloudy with relatively frequent torrential downpours.
Tips
  • It can be a little tricky getting to the Airport Uber pick up area.Request your ride when you get to it as depending on where you are in the airport it can be difficult to navigate to. The area is well attended to and secure so there is nothing to worry about there.
  • Think hard about where you will live and work from.Some routes are certainly feasible on foot, but there's a possibility that you might become entirely dependent on Ubers, which can become tiring after a while.
  • Be mindful of where you are running.Have an idea of the route you are intending to take and stick to it. Everywhere seems to blur into a suburban malaise and if you're not fully attentive, you may inadvertently end up somewhere you don't want to be.
  • Rosebank & Sandton Malls are great for shopping.If you need to pick anything up, you're best off heading to one of these.
  • Watch out for loadshedding.It didn't appear as prevalent as it did during my time in Cape Town, but like all areas in South Africa, there is energy scarcity across the country.
Johannesburg Botanical Garden in Emmarentia.
A typical residential suburban road in Joburg.

Get insured with SafetyWing

If you're considering a trip of over 30 days abroad, you may want to consider dedicated travel insurance to ensure you have adequate protection
Sign up and get $20 off
Learn more open_in_new

Fee-free withdrawals with Monzo

I've used Monzo abroad religiously for the last 4 years with zero issues in any country. A worthy addition to any wallet
Set up an account & earn £5
Learn more open_in_new

Get international data with an Airalo eSIM

A hassle-free alternative to physical SIM cards, with strong global availability
Get $3 USD off
Learn more open_in_new
Looking for dedicated remote travel insurance?
I've used SafetyWing for the past twelve months and can vouch for it being an excellent service!

National infrastructure hasn’t kept pace with the changing needs of digital nomads and remote workers. The internet has allowed people to break out of the cultural norms of their home countries and live, work and form communities how they choose.
Sign up and get $20 off