Bulgaria
Mar 2022
2 months

Sofia

A fantastic city to visit - only once all the snow has melted.

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The capital of Bulgaria, is a city simultaneously embracing history and modernity.

A mix of ancient Roman, Ottoman, and Soviet influences can be identified creating a unique urban landscape.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If you're already in the Balkans, it's definitely worth a stay of up to a month during the warmer months. However, it would be towards the bottom of the list in winter.

🌎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If you're already in the Balkans, it's definitely worth a stay of up to a month during the warmer months. However, it would be towards the bottom of the list in winter.

Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If you're already in the Balkans, it's definitely worth a stay of up to a month during the warmer months. However, it would be towards the bottom of the list in winter.

👎
Verdict:
Worth it if in the area

If you're already in the Balkans, it's definitely worth a stay of up to a month during the warmer months. However, it would be towards the bottom of the list in winter.

🛫
Bulgarian Lev (BGN)
1.2 Million
💰 Great value

Summary

Having spent a couple of months in Budapest and with aspirations of being in Greece over the summer, i was wary of running close to my Brexit enforced 90 day EU limit. Being one of the few options outside of the Schengen zone, Sofia provided a useful alternative.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
79
%

If booking a little in advance you should have no problem finding a good quality apartment at a great price by Western European standards.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%

The city has a big range of coworking options, from both independent operators to more corporate chains. There are no shortage of coffee shops to work from.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
75
%

General day to day expenses are considerably less than what you may expect in Western Europe, with lots of options for an inexpensive meals for lunch and dinner. More expensive than some of it's other Balkan neighbours.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
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Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
75
%

It would be a stretch to call Sofia an exciting city by global standards, but as the nation’s capital with over 1 million people, there’s a fair amount to see over the course of a month. Throughout the week, Vitosha Boulevard and the surrounding streets see a good level of foot traffic, and on weekends, areas like Doctors' Garden offer satisfying spots to enjoy.

Working hours

Bulgaria operates on Eastern European Time (EET), pushing it an hour ahead of Western Europe throughout the year.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
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🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Not an enormous city, but I would recommend being in one of these two areas where you will be close to the best items the city has to offer.

Would avoid
Recommended
Doctors' Garden
A beautifully sedate area, 15 minutes walk to the centre of town and loads of great cafes and bars situated within the area. Would highly recommend.
Would avoid
Recommended
City Center
Absolutely no harm in being as close to Viotsha Boulevard as possible. Plenty of options for coworking and nightlife within a 5 minute walk of Seredika underground station.

Where to work

Korner Sofia Coworking
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Situated a 2 minute walk from the bustle of Vitosha Boulevard, Korner Coworking provides a peaceful and homely base to work from whilst being in the centre of the city. Dedicated desks are available and the kitchen is equipped with a decent coffee machine.

The only drawback is that there is somewhat limited space for taking calls, however if this is not an issue then I would 100% recommend it. Plenty of great lunch and coffee options available within the immediate vicinity.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.
Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

Off work

Hike in Vitoshia Mountain

Enormous national park with an endless supply of hiking routes and some limited options for Skiing. Hiking up in winter can be challenging but look out for some log cabins selling hot drinks and food which make a welcome respite from the harsh conditions

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Day trip to Plovdiv

Accessible within a few hours on the train, Plovdiv is one of Europe's oldest cities featuring a well-preserved Old Town with cobbled streets. Worth a day trip, especially if you have any interest in archeology,

Visit St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Probably the city's most recogniseable landmark, a Bulgarian Orthodox church with Neo-Byzantine architecture & an underground museum.

Duration & season

I arrived in early March and the first two weeks were an awful mix of snow, rain and clouds. Vitosha Mountain which usually over the city was barely visible until half way through the month. From late March onwards the temperatures steadily rose leaving only faint scatters of snow on the mountains peak.

Unless you are explicitly looking for snow, it's difficult to make a compelling argument for visiting prior to April, where the city feels like it comes to life and the outdoor amenities can be fully enjoyed.

There's enough in Sofia to comfortably stay for a month.

Food & drink

Eurovelo 6
·
Cycle
One of the worst signposted routes in the Eurovelo network, the quiet roads are ideal for meandering through the countryside. Bring lots of water with you.
Vitosha
·
Walk
Easily accessible from the centre of town, the mountain has an abundance of well marked route with great views once you reach the top. Treacherous if attempting over winter in the snow.

People

There is a sizeable international community in Sofia, particularly after the Russian invasion of Ukraine where those who have been displaced ave relocated to the city. It has also become a home to numerous Russian's who have relocated there in the previous decade leading up the recent events. There is a sizeable expat community with many European companies having chosen to set up base in the city.

There is a small remote work community in the city, but you are more likely to find people in Bankso, a two hour drive from Sofia which has become a hub for remote workers.

Exercise

Eurovelo 6
One of the worst signposted routes in the Eurovelo network, the quiet roads are ideal for meandering through the countryside. Bring lots of water with you.
keyboard_arrow_down
Vitosha
Easily accessible from the centre of town, the mountain has an abundance of well marked route with great views once you reach the top. Treacherous if attempting over winter in the snow.
keyboard_arrow_down
Eurovelo 6
One of the worst signposted routes in the Eurovelo network, the quiet roads are ideal for meandering through the countryside. Bring lots of water with you.
Vitosha
Easily accessible from the centre of town, the mountain has an abundance of well marked route with great views once you reach the top. Treacherous if attempting over winter in the snow.

Verdict

Positives
  • Surprisingly international audience.Whilst it is by no means as multicultural as some other cities, there is a good mix of people from across Europe.
  • If travelling from Western Europe, great value.Compared to many other European capitals it is still comparatively inexpensive, but more pricey than some other neighbouring counties in the Balkans.
  • The metro makes the city well connected.It's not the most frequent service but it's cheap and you can pay with contactless and connects well to the airport.
  • Outside of the Schengen Zone.If for whatever reason you have reached your limit of time available within the Schengen group of countries, Bulgaria is an alternative.

Negatives
  • It's really bleak in winter.There were few benefits I could imagine being in Sofia before April time. My main memories of March were of snow filled streets and poor visibility.
Tips
  • Bansko is a renowned hub for remote workers.I didn't make it up there but if you are looking to connect with people in a renowned hub, it would be worth exploring.
  • You can reach Istanbul via an overnight train.It is comfortable but the prolonged border crossing in the middle of the night makes it something of an unpleasant journey.
  • The countryside is great for cycling.The roads are mainly deserted and of reasonable quality, making it a great place to cover some ground. Train service makes it easy to get to a starting point and cycle back.
  • Well worth visitng for the Film Festival.The Sofia Film Festival is in March of each year and is a well run event, with multiple cinemas across the city showing a range of regional and international films.
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