holdall · Warsaw, Poland

Warsaw

Aug 2024

6 weeks

Summary

Summary

I would be lying if I said I had a lifelong ambition to visit Warsaw.

However, with six weeks to fill between two weddings in the UK, it seemed like a reasonable and relatively local choice to fill a gap during the summer.

Accommodation

Bad

Good

Great

Warsaw still offers good value for accommodation compared to the capitals of Western European cities. With a bit of searching, you can find a quality apartment in a decent area for under €1,000 a month on Airbnb, which is inconceivable in neighbouring countries.

As a more unconventional destination for tourists, the city feels less affected by the seasonal fluctuations typical of peak holiday periods.

info

New legislation

Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

Places to work

Bad

Good

Great

If you have WeWork access, the company offers outstanding coverage with five outlets spread across the city, all providing 24/7 access. Having visited all of them, I recommend the space at Menica Legacy Tower, which I’ve discussed in greater detail below.

Additionally, there are many other operators in the city, reflecting Poland’s status as a technology hub in the region.

Value

Bad

Good

Great

If you're visiting from a major Western European city, Warsaw still offers better value, though having visited Poland several times over the past decade, that gap is diminishing.

Meals from the cities numerous street food-style market outlets cost about 40 Zloty (£7.89), while prices in specialty coffee shops are almost identical to those in London.

Should you wish, you can eat out very inexpensively, with Bar Mleczny providing excellent value, typical Polish meals costing around 30 Zloty (£5.90).

On average, alcohol in bars and restaurants is still substantially cheaper, with local beer available for as little as 12 Zloty (£2.37).

info

The yen is currently at a 34-year low

While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.

View cost of living

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Excitement

Bad

Good

Great

When comparing Warsaw to other world capitals, it does not rank favourably in terms of excitement. If you’re looking to be constantly swept up in bustling activity, it will likely fall short of expectations. As a destination, there just isn't anything particularly distinctive that would justify flying across the world to experience.

Compared to nearby capitals, it feels less immersive and memorable than Budapest but notably more energetic than Riga. This relaxed atmosphere may be attributed to its relatively low population density by international standards. Most public spaces, even in the city centre, and the metro rarely feel crowded.

However, these factors make it a highly liveable place to base yourself.

Working hours

Poland operates on Central European Time (CET), aligning with the rest of Western Europe.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?

I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.

Read article

Do you need to speak Spanish?

Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.

The Old Town of Warsaw is the most architecturally distinctive part of the city, but it’s less of a focal point compared to Krakow’s. It mainly attracts weekend tourists and doesn’t seem to be an area frequently visited by the locals.

The area surrounding the symbolic Soviet-era 'Pałac Kultury i Nauki' marks what could be considered the geographical centre of the city, with the modern high-rise skyline of Mirów in the background.

A typical meal at Bar Mleczny usually consists of a protein item, potatoes, cabbage, and a hot soup, typically costing around 30 Zloty (£5.90). These restaurants are a great place to sample a range of Polish cuisine.

🔎

November 2024 Fact Check

Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.

"Nowhere accepts card"

Incorrect

Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.

"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"

Incorrect

This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.

"Buenos Aires is cheap"

Incorrect

The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.

"Bring dollars with you"

Partially true

This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.

"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"

Partially true

The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.

"Restaurant service is poor"

Partially true

I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper, traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.

"It is a football mad city"

True

There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Compared to other cities, wherever you choose to stay in Warsaw is unlikely to dramatically impact your experience.

The city is easy to navigate, and no areas possess radically different architecture or characteristics that would affect the quality of your stay.

If you want to be as close to the centre as possible, I'd recommend staying on the Eastern side of the river.

Would avoid

Recommended

Śródmieście Południowe

If you want to be near some of the most modern options for food and drink, I’d recommend staying close to this area. There’s a wealth of great spots, with a lively atmosphere in the evenings. Especially if you're visiting for a short period, this would be my top recommendation.

WeWork - Krucza 50

Would avoid

Recommended

Mirów

Home to many of the latest property developments in the city centre, Mirów boasts three WeWork locations and numerous food and drink establishments. It's around a 20-minute walk to the commercial centre.

WeWork - Mennica Legacy Tower

Would avoid

Recommended

Muranów

I stayed here on my most recent trip. Around a 30-minute walk into the center, Muranów is a mainly residential area with more of a neighborhood feel. Better for longer trips. This district has a poignant history as the former site of the Warsaw Ghetto, now commemorated by several museums and memorials.

WeWork - Hotel Europejsk

Would avoid

Recommended

Powiśle

Located on the west bank of the Vistula River, Powiśle is within a short walk of the commercial centre and Old Town. This riverside district has undergone significant revitalisation in recent years.

WeWork - Hotel Europejski

Would avoid

Recommended

Old Town

There's no real reason to stay in the Old Town itself which is mainly geared towards tourists. Not inherently a bad place but it's unlikely you'll spend a lot of time there otherwise,

WeWork - Hotel Europejski

Where to work

WeWork - Mennica Legacy Tower

Top Choice

☕️ Good Coffee

📍 Top Location

🥗 On Site Cafe

🧍Community Focused

⭐️ Quality Fit Out

🌳 Outdoor Space

Of the 5 WeWork destinations in the city, this tops the list.

Situated adjacent to the Fabryka Norblina food, retail, and entertainment hub, WeWork occupies the entirety of this eight-floor block, with large communal spaces on both the first and seventh floors. The first floor features a spacious, quiet, and well-lit open seating area for all access members, along with a large outdoor balcony providing panoramic views across the city.

There are numerous lunch options in the immediate vicinity, with over ten street food outlets in Fabryka and other restaurants serving the commercial offices in the Wola area.

Having visited each of the other locations numerous times, this one feels like it offers the best balance of space, ambience, and facilities. Each site across the city has a dedicated barista from 08:00 to 15:00, serving surprisingly good coffee from local Etno Cafe.

‍

Other destinations in the city:

Krucza 50 - Potentially the best situated in the city, close to the Centrum metro station. However, the communal area on the second floor isn't the best for focused work.

Hotel Europejski - Located in a beautiful building from the 1800s just moments away from the Old Town, this site suffers from a lack of ambience during the daytime. There are limited lunch options nearby, with few other offices in the vicinity.

Grzybowska 60 - A great option during the summer months, featuring a large balcony area on the 8th floor.

Grzybowska 62 - The smallest of the sites in the city. While there is seating for All Access Members, it feels more like a common area for the private office facilities in the rest of the building.

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Get one month free on a 12-month commitment

Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.

Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon

A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.

This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.

There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Visa length

Visa cost

Earning requirements

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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

‍Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

An incredibly safe city.Compared to many other major European capitals, Warsaw feels significantly free of any trouble. There's a continuously visible yet non-intrusive Polish presence across the city, with the threat of petty crimes like opportunistic phone theft seemingly not on anyones radar.

Off work

Visit the Tatra Mountains

While these are in the south of the country on the border with Slovakia, it's hard to imagine many better trips you can take within Poland.

Comfortable, direct trains run daily to Zakopane from Warsaw. This small town is set at the base of the Tatra Mountains, making it the perfect place for a few nights of hiking in spectacular, alpine-like environments.

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Eat at a 'Milkbar'

'Bar mleczny' establishments first appeared in post-war Poland during the communist era. They were created as part of the government's effort to provide affordable meals to workers and students. The name "milk bar" comes from their original purpose of serving dairy-based meals, though their menus have expanded over time.

Today, they are great places to sample a wide range of national cuisine and seemingly frequented by people of all walks of life. These types of restaurants can be found all cross the city, Mleczarnia Jerozolimska represents a partocularly convenient option with a cental location and McDonalds style touch screen ordering.

Expect a no frills ambience, but generous portions of hearty food, served promptly.

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Visit 'Targ Śniadaniowy'

The Breakfast Market runs on weekends from late April through September, serving a wide range of local produce and international cusine. On Saturdays, it's open from 9 AM to 4 PM near Plac Inwalidów in Żoliborz. On Sundays, it moves to Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów.. For more detals, check their website.

Duration & season

August felt like the perfect time to visit the city and make the most of its outdoor spaces. Most days featured clear, sunny conditions with temperatures in the high 20s.

There's little reason I would want to return to Warsaw outside of the summer months with the Polish winters being notoriously uninspiring.

Food & drink

MADAMe Thai Restaurant

Muranów

Warsaw has plenty of questionable Thai restaurants, but this one stands apart as being a true authentic option. It offers a small menu, outdoor seating, and prompt service.

Top Choice

Viet's Baguette

Stary Mokotów

After extensive sampling, this is comfortably the best Banh Mi in town. Choose from a range of 20 fillings, all freshly made and offered at an excellent price.

Top Choice

Señor Lucas Taquería

Śródmieście Południowe

Some of the best Mexican food I've had in recent years, with fresh, authentic ingredients. Expect long queues on weekends, but more manageable during the week before 19:00

Top Choice

Story Coffee Roasters Specialty Coffee

Bielany

Located a fair journey from the center, this café is well worth the trip north, offering a variety of quality roasted beans.

Top Choice

Pizza na Chmielnej

Chmielna Stree

Top Choice

Resort Warszawa

Śródmieście

Part café, part bar, part entertainment venue, Resort is an unassuming spot for drinks at any time of the day, located just outside the Old Town.

Top Choice

Kraken Rum Bar

Śródmieście Południowe

Four bars and kitchens come together, offering a lively mix of beers, cocktails, and street food, with the option of outdoor seating.

Top Choice

Zakopane to Kasprowy Wierch

Walk

If you make it to Zakopane, this route takes you via Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy and eventually up to the peak of Kasprowy Wierch. There's a full restaurant and bar at the summit, with the option of a cable car taking you back down.

Old Town + River

Run

The Old Town and western bank of the Vistula provide a scenic and peaceful backdrop for morning runs. This area remains tranquil before the crowds appear later in the day.

Loop to Karczew

Cycle

There are quality gravel track rides following the Vistula River both north and south out of the city. Heading south along the western bank, you can take a car ferry to the small town of Gassy before heading back up the opposite side.

Park Skaryszewski

Run

If you're staying on the west side of the river, it’s well worth running over to the Praga-Południe district for a lap around the park. It is well-landscaped with a large lake on the western perimeter.

People

Whilst Warsaw may stand as something of an exception within Poland, as of 2024 it presents a notably more cosmopolitan atmosphere than certain conservative, immigration-sceptic social media accounts might lead you to believe.

The ongoing war across the border has resulted in a large Ukrainian diaspora in the city. There's also a notable Vietnamese community, alongside a diverse mix of international students and Belarusians.

As a city that’s not particularly popular with tourists, and even less so for remote workers, you're unlikely to encounter too many digital nomads. However, as a commercial hub, it does attract a number of expats to work in the city.

Exercise

Zakopane to Kasprowy Wierch

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Old Town + River

The Old Town and western bank of the Vistula provide a scenic and peaceful backdrop for morning runs. This area remains tranquil before the crowds appear later in the day.

keyboard_arrow_down

Loop to Karczew

keyboard_arrow_down

Park Skaryszewski

keyboard_arrow_down

Zakopane to Kasprowy Wierch

Old Town + River

The Old Town and western bank of the Vistula provide a scenic and peaceful backdrop for morning runs. This area remains tranquil before the crowds appear later in the day.

Loop to Karczew

Park Skaryszewski

Verdict

Positives

Remarkably easy city to get around.The combination of an effective metro system, trams, buses, city bikes, and scooters makes it easy to get between two points no matter where you are. The city is remarkably flat, making most journeys painless.
Close to perfect summer weather.Temperatures of up to 30°C are comfortable, not stuffy, and drop sufficiently at night to not warrant A/C.
Immune from the pressures of seasonal tourism.There are dramatically fewer tourists in Warsaw compared to Krakow or neighbouring Prague, which may be ideal depending on what you are looking for.
A surprisingly strong variety of international food.You may not naturally associate Poland with being a beacon of international cuisine, but I cannot recall seeing anywhere in Europe with such a large number of Thai and Vietnamese outlets.
Lots of good quality night-time venues.The city has done a great job of converting old industrial facilities into architecturally diverse venues for street food markets and indoor dining. Fabryka Norblina, Browary Warszawskie, and Hala Koszyki, among others, are of a great standard.
Surprisingly calm.Peaceful and even somewhat sedate for a national capital. Even in the commercial centres of the city, the density of people surrounding you never feels remotely intense. Motorists and cyclists appear to coexist harmoniously, and there is strong obedience to pedestrian crossings. The threat of opportunistic phone theft doesn't seem to have entered anyone's consciousness.
English spoken widely.While you shouldn’t assume that everyone speaks English, the younger generations of Poles seem to have an impressively high level of English proficiency.
Lots and lots of ice cream.The Poles love 'Lody' with great enthusiasm, as evidenced by the abundance of stores dispersed across the city. This may be a drawback depending on your current dietary goals.

Negatives

Not the most inspiring place.It would be unfair to claim that Warsaw is a dull place. It just lacks any clearly defining characteristics that might make you fall in love with it. It’s unlikely that you’ll have the most vivid and memorable period of your life in the city. If you have a limited amount of time, you might be better off looking elsewhere.
Polish food doesn’t lend itself too well to the summer months.I enjoy Polish cuisine, but most of the dishes are better suited to the cold winter months. Pierogis and hot soups don’t quite have the same appeal at 28°C in August.

Tips

Airalo is great value in Poland.You can get a one-off 20GB data eSIM for £10.
If looking to hire a quality bicycle, head to a shop called 'Coffee Rider'.Great quality gravel bikes can be hired for around 80 Zloty (£17) per day from their workshop. For a more casual ride across the city, Wygodny Rower offers city bikes very inexpensively.
If using the 'Veturilo' city bike scheme, ensure you can make phone calls on your device.Veturilo is a popular city-wide dockless bike scheme allowing rides of up to 20 minutes for free. The one issue is that the bikes sometimes don’t lock properly when you return them. You cannot lock the bikes via the app and must ring the customer support centre. If you can’t make phone calls on your phone, this could be a real problem.
Double-check which airport you need to be at.Chopin is much closer to the city centre, while Modlin is a fair distance away.
National train services are excellent quality and great value for money.Book in advance on popular routes and times to ensure you get a seat reservation. Most IC trains feature a fully-fledged dining car serving freshly made breakfasts, coffees, and meals.
Food delivery apps are super popular.Wolt, Glovo, and Pyszne all operate extensively across the city.
Taxis are inexpensive.Rides via Bolt and Uber are affordable with great coverage across the city.

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The Vistula River flows straight through the city and is a popular destination for runners and cyclists at all times of the day. In the evening, the area around Poniatowski Bridge comes alive with bars and restaurants, making it an excellent spot for nightlife.

The areas surrounding Emilii Plater and Poznańska streets are among the nicest in the city, offering numerous options with tree-lined streets, outdoor seating for specialty coffees, and a wide range of international cuisines.

The rennovated market hall 'Hala Koszyki' is one of many recently revistalised former industrial sites which have done a great job of maintaining the original aesthethic with new street food vendors, bars and art installations.

Planning a trip to

Warsaw

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National infrastructure hasn’t kept pace with the changing needs of digital nomads and remote workers. The internet has allowed people to break out of the cultural norms of their home countries and live, work and form communities how they choose.

Warsaw

An indistinct yet highly liveable city.

Poland's capital since 1596 was nearly razed during World War II.

Warsaw

Summary

Accommodation

Places to work

Value

Excitement

Working hours

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?

Do you need to speak Spanish?

🔎

November 2024 Fact Check

Where to stay

Śródmieście Południowe

Mirów

Muranów

Powiśle

Old Town

Where to work

WeWork - Mennica Legacy Tower

Of the 5 WeWork destinations in the city, this tops the list.

Other destinations in the city:

Remote work visa

A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.

This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.

There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Safety

Off work

Visit the Tatra Mountains

Eat at a 'Milkbar'

Visit 'Targ Śniadaniowy'

Duration & season

Food & drink

MADAMe Thai Restaurant

Muranów

Viet's Baguette

Stary Mokotów

Señor Lucas Taquería

Śródmieście Południowe

Story Coffee Roasters Specialty Coffee

Bielany

Pizza na Chmielnej

Chmielna Stree

Resort Warszawa

Śródmieście

Kraken Rum Bar

Śródmieście Południowe

People

Exercise

Zakopane to Kasprowy Wierch

Old Town + River

Loop to Karczew

Park Skaryszewski

Verdict

Positives

Negatives

Tips

More from Japan

Planning a trip to

Warsaw

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