Colombia
Oct 2024
1 Week

Medellín

Colombia's mountainous remote work capital

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
°C ·
[Description}

Modern Medellín has undergone significant transformation.

Its at-times painful history was often associated with severe violence and insecurity related to drug cartels. Now, in 2024, it is a vibrant hub of culture and commerce, set in a dramatic valley in the Andes.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

A fun, immersive, and reasonably safe introduction to the country, it ticks all the essential boxes for a memorable stay. Be intentional about the time of year you plan to visit to make the most of your experience.

🌎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

A fun, immersive, and reasonably safe introduction to the country, it ticks all the essential boxes for a memorable stay. Be intentional about the time of year you plan to visit to make the most of your experience.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

A fun, immersive, and reasonably safe introduction to the country, it ticks all the essential boxes for a memorable stay. Be intentional about the time of year you plan to visit to make the most of your experience.

👎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

A fun, immersive, and reasonably safe introduction to the country, it ticks all the essential boxes for a memorable stay. Be intentional about the time of year you plan to visit to make the most of your experience.

🛫
Colombian Peso (COP)
2.5 million
🏝️ Great for a holiday
💻 Remote work hub
💰 Great value
🥇 Top rated

Summary

After a month in the underwhelming weather of Bogotá, I was eager to indulge in some more traditionally South American temperatures, taking the 45-minute flight north to Medellín, the capital of the Antioquia region and a renowned international tourist hub.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
83
%

Prices felt marginally higher than in Bogotá for a comparable property but still offered excellent value by global standards. For around £1,000 per month, you should be able to secure a high-quality apartment in whichever neighbourhood you choose. During the high season, expect prices to rise and availability to decrease accordingly, so booking well in advance is advisable if planning a trip in those periods.

Each main area offers a markedly different experience of the city, so it’s worth considering carefully where to base yourself before booking.

Residential air conditioning is uncommon, and with daytime temperatures reaching up to 28°C on clear days, working from home may feel borderline uncomfortable.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
83
%

Most of the city’s coworking options are located in the El Poblado area, where WeWork has three high-quality sites, all featuring expansive outdoor areas. Compared to their offices in Bogotá, I found these to be significantly more professional and tailored for working individuals, with dedicated seating areas and much-needed air conditioning.

A few independent options can be found in Laureles, while the downtown area offers little of note. You’ll likely see people working in the numerous coffee shops throughout the city, which generally provide calm and relaxed environments, often staying open until around 20:00 on weekdays.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%

Prices for everyday purchases felt generally similar to those in Bogotá, with a slight premium likely in neighbourhoods like El Poblado and Laureles, where high-end restaurants catering to tourists are more common than local eateries.

Upmarket malls in the hills, such as Amsterdam Plaza, serve as hubs for both shopping and dining, offering international options at prices reasonable by global standards. The concentration of tourism is significant enough that any price difference fades quickly outside these core areas.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
83
%

Medellín has a lively and energetic feel, particularly in the touristic neighbourhoods of El Poblado, which offer a more concentrated nightlife atmosphere compared to anything I found in Bogotá. Similar to the capital, the actual downtown area provides little of value, with the more modern neighbourhoods feeling more like distinct towns than traditional cities in a European sense.

While El Poblado is predominantly known as an entertainment hub, the area from Parque El Poblado to Santafé Mall is home to numerous businesses, with offices on either side of Avenida El Poblado, giving it a working feel during the week. The city is home to early risers, with the streets busy with commuters by 06:30.

Working hours

Colombia Time (COT) is year-round GMT-5, placing it right on the edge of where you can comfortably work to maintain some overlap with European colleagues. I would generally start each day at 06:30 local time, finishing a couple of hours earlier than normal. For anyone maintaining North American hours, Colombia's position is ideal, aligning perfectly with Eastern Time during US Standard Time, and with Central Time during US Daylight Saving Time.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
A view from the 20th floor of a tower block in El Tesoro. The views are spectacular from this area, but living in the neighbourhood can make for a frustrating experience, with small roads plagued by traffic. Would only consider if you're happy being confined to a car.
A view from the 20th floor of a tower block in El Tesoro. The views are spectacular from this area, but living in the neighbourhood can make for a frustrating experience, with small roads plagued by traffic. Would only consider if you're happy being confined to a car.
If you’re comfortable in a neighbourhood primarily comprised of tourists and are seeking a safe area, consider Manila in El Poblado. It’s leafy, walkable, and offers plenty of options for food and drink.
If you’re comfortable in a neighbourhood primarily comprised of tourists and are seeking a safe area, consider Manila in El Poblado. It’s leafy, walkable, and offers plenty of options for food and drink.
The downtown area of La Candelaria is a world away from what you would expect in El Poblado or Laureles. The area around Parque Berrío is swamped with street vendors selling every imaginable item. It's worth heading down there to experience a non-sanitised version of urban Colombian life.
The downtown area of La Candelaria is a world away from what you would expect in El Poblado or Laureles. The area around Parque Berrío is swamped with street vendors selling every imaginable item. It's worth heading down there to experience a non-sanitised version of urban Colombian life.

Where to stay

El Poblado has, in recent years, become the primary hub for expats and tourists in the city, gaining a reputation for being lively, safe, and internationally oriented.

If it’s your first visit, staying within a 10-minute drive of its centre is a reliable choice, though certainly not the only one.

Would avoid
Recommended
El Tesoro
Where I most recently stayed, El Tesoro, is situated one kilometre up the hill to the east of El Poblado. This predominantly residential area features high-rise apartment blocks, and the views from the upper floors of its towers are spectacular. However, access can be troublesome due to steep, narrow roads and inconsistent pavements. Traffic frequently becomes congested, making commuting arduous.
Would avoid
Recommended
Laureles
For stays longer than a few nights, I would definitely recommend Laureles, specifically around 'Segundo Parque de Laureles'. It's approximately a 20-minute drive from El Poblado by Uber and offers a more refined neighbourhood atmosphere whilst maintaining a wealth of options for dining and drinking. However, if you need to commute frequently to El Poblado, the heavy traffic could prove problematic.
Would avoid
Recommended
La Candelaria
Similar to Bogotá, there is no compelling reason to stay in the heart of the downtown area. Worth wandering around for an afternoon to visit some museums and to get a feel for an unsanitised version of urban Colombian life. The centre is chaotic, loud and home to a seedier side of the city.
Would avoid
Recommended
Manilla
A ten-minute walk from the centre of El Poblado, this leafy neighbourhood has numerous hotels and felt like one of the better options to base yourself in the area if looking to surround yourself with fellow tourists. However, it didn't feel like an entirely accurate reflection of urban Colombian life, which may or may not be of concern to you.
Would avoid
Recommended
El Poblado
Unless you are planning a trip centred around prostitution, buying drugs or acquiring counterfeit Ray-Bans, there is little reason to stay in the heart of El Poblado itself as noted on the map. Easy to get in and out of from any of the other surrounding neighbourhoods.

Where to work

WeWork - El Poblado #7D
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

The best located of WeWork's three locaitons throughout Medellin.

Just a two-minute walk from Parque de El Poblado, WeWork occupies this modern nine-storey commercial building, with the scenic backdrop of El Tesoro appearing in the background.

There is a large, air-conditioned All Access Space on the 8th floor, with a balcony wrapping around its perimeter and plenty of sofas and phone booths for moments away from your desk. There is a Juan Valdez café also on this floor and a range of quality options for coffee and lunch within a five-minute walk. Some standout espressos were from  Campesino Café, Cafés de Origen Sede Antejardín and Urbania Café.

Whilst the vast majority of people there are Colombians, on each of my visits there was a number of North Americans and a distinctly more international feel than any of the sites I visited in Bogotá.

The entire 9th floor is dedicated to a roof terrace with sun loungers, sofas, beer taps and even what looked like a court for padel or football, with amazing views of the entire area. If I were to return to Medellín, I'd ensure I was within close walking distance of here.

Other options in Medellín:

WeWork Las Palmas - Set in the hills around a ten-minute drive from El Poblado (without traffic), Las Palmas has amazing views of the valley beneath with plentiful seating. Whilst the location does provide great views, it is in a secluded location so you can't nip out for coffee or lunch.

WeWork Carrera 42 - A ten-minute walk further down Avenida El Poblado, this still felt a good option but with fewer seating options. Within convenient distance of the large malls of Oviedo and Santafé.

Learn more open_in_new

Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

The Colombia digital nomad visa offers an affordable route for remote workers seeking to live and work in Colombia. At $177, it's significantly cheaper than many similar visas, and applicants only need to prove a monthly income of at least $684.

The application process is straightforward: you'll need a valid passport, health insurance, an employment verification letter, and bank statements showing your income. Successful applicants are granted a two-year stay in Colombia and receive a foreign ID card, the Cedula de Extranjeria.

This ID allows holders to rent properties and set up mobile phone contracts, adding further convenience for longer-term stays.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of October 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • The core tourist areas of the city should not be a major concern.El Poblado feels safe to walk around from sunrise until the early evening. There is a visible police presence throughout the area, with numerous groups of officers stationed along Calle 10, which runs through its centre. Your greatest chance of encountering trouble would likely arise from engaging with drug dealers on the street. While the city isn't immune to unfortunate incidents, this shouldn’t deter you from visiting.
  • The main roads of El Tesoro felt safe to navigate on foot.I would commute daily walking down the hill and often in the evenings after sunset when there's usually heavy traffic on the road. You can usually find many locals walking later into the evening, but once the traffic has cleared, there's no reason not to use an Uber.
  • If you are planning on dating, caution should be exercised.Stories of men who have been drugged and robbed throughout the country via the odourless drug scopolamine (locally known as Burundanga) have become increasingly common. This has led to the US Government producing official guidance on the matter, and dating site Hinge ceasing operations. With all this considered, its probably worth reconsidering the complementary Margarita offered to you on a night out.
  • If planning on visiting any bars near Parque Lleras, check Google Map reviews first.While it's advisable to avoid bars in this area entirely, some establishments are notorious for extorting tourists with aggressive mark-ups on drinks, which can send your bill skyrocketing.
  • Comuna 13 felt like one of the safest places in the city.You shouldn't have any concerns when visiting this area, as it is bustling with tour guides, friendly street vendors, and locals going about their daily routines.
  • There is a visible police presence at the entrance and on the platforms of the metro.Like any metro system, maintain awareness of your belongings, especially during rush hour. It remains a safe and reliable way to navigate the city.

Off work

Visit Communa 13

Comuna 13 has a troubled past and was once among the city’s most dangerous areas due to gang violence, drug trafficking, and clashes between paramilitary groups. Over the past 15 years, it has transformed into a hub of street art, music, and community-led initiatives. Escalators have been installed alongside colourfully painted staircases, connecting residents to steep neighbourhoods.

Numerous tours focus on either the graffiti or historic elements of the neighbourhood, though these are not necessary, as you can walk around safely on your own. I visited in the early morning, which felt like the best time to avoid the inevitable crowds later in the day, but a later visit in the afternoon might be ideal to enjoy the many appealing cocktail and michelada spots. Easily reachable from El Poblado via public transport or Uber, Comuna 13 is definitely worth a morning or afternoon of your time while in the city.

Learn more open_in_new
Take a cable car ride

Medellin's cable cars aren't just for taking in the views but form a core part of the city’s efficient metro system, providing daily commutes for residents on the valley's steep slopes.

If you’re staying in El Poblado, you can head north to Acevedo station on Cra. 63, where there’s a direct interchange with the line up to Santo Domingo. From there, you can switch lines to reach Parque Arví (this was closed during my visit so check ahead of time if wanting to reach the top). If possible, try and plan for an early morning ride on a clear day to view the shadows lift from the hillsides. There's a full guide here on the various lines and routes.

Duration & season

Visiting in October felt like you were constantly rolling the dice with the weather. Of the seven days I was there, three had periods of sustained rain, three were cloudy and one offered blissful clear skies. When it does rain, the city can grind to a standstill under its intensity, with temporary rivers flowing down from the steep valleys enclosing the centre.

December to March is supposedly the best period of the year to reduce the likelihood of rain, but its presence can never be fully ruled out.

There's more than enough to occupy a month's stay, but I'd personally base myself a little away from the immediate tourist centres for anything longer than a week.

Food & drink

San Javer - Communa 13 - Laureles
·
Walk
If you are staying in El Poblado and want to head for Comuna 13, you can take the metro to San Antonio and change lines to the terminus at San Javier. The walk through residential neighbourhoods felt relatively safe before arriving at what is a rather hectic tourist area. The walk back down to Laureles is pleasant, passing through the residential neighbourhood of Santa Monica.
Centro & Parque Natural Cerro El Volador
·
Run
I was struggling to gauge the safety of the downtown area, so I explored it as part of a run. It was an exhilarating experience. The whole area feels frantic, but Calle 51 stood out as particularly seedy and debauched, reminiscent of an otherworldly sensation, like being at a festival at 6 AM. I wouldn't recommend making the journey to El Volador Park, which consists of a steep road winding up a hilltop. There have been reports of thefts in the area, though you're likely safer running than hiking it—or, better yet, avoiding it entirely.
El Poblado Loop
·
Run
El Poblado is safe for running around - with the only challenge being the intense elevation when heading up into the hills of El Tesoro. Avenida El Poblado has some gentle inclines with a segregated cycle lane in stretches, which appears to be popular with locals.

People

There was a noticeable increase in the number of both remote workers in the WeWork offices I visited and tourists passing through compared to Bogotá, but still fewer than I anticipated given the city's reputation as a remote work hub. This might be partly due to visiting outside of peak season.

If you're looking to meet others, there are numerous WhatsApp and Facebook groups with a number of specific interest groups for accommodation and hiking.

Walking around El Poblado, you're likely to encounter a healthy representation of North Americans, as well as a noticeable presence of Europeans. In Manila, it felt as though you're most likely to be surrounding yourself with tourists due to the volume of hotels and hostels in the area.

The presence of foreign influence soon disperses, however, and if you head down to Envigado, only a few stops from El Poblado, you'd struggle to find any evidence of expatriate presence

Exercise

San Javer - Communa 13 - Laureles
If you are staying in El Poblado and want to head for Comuna 13, you can take the metro to San Antonio and change lines to the terminus at San Javier. The walk through residential neighbourhoods felt relatively safe before arriving at what is a rather hectic tourist area. The walk back down to Laureles is pleasant, passing through the residential neighbourhood of Santa Monica.
keyboard_arrow_down
Centro & Parque Natural Cerro El Volador
I was struggling to gauge the safety of the downtown area, so I explored it as part of a run. It was an exhilarating experience. The whole area feels frantic, but Calle 51 stood out as particularly seedy and debauched, reminiscent of an otherworldly sensation, like being at a festival at 6 AM. I wouldn't recommend making the journey to El Volador Park, which consists of a steep road winding up a hilltop. There have been reports of thefts in the area, though you're likely safer running than hiking it—or, better yet, avoiding it entirely.
keyboard_arrow_down
El Poblado Loop
El Poblado is safe for running around - with the only challenge being the intense elevation when heading up into the hills of El Tesoro. Avenida El Poblado has some gentle inclines with a segregated cycle lane in stretches, which appears to be popular with locals.
keyboard_arrow_down
San Javer - Communa 13 - Laureles
If you are staying in El Poblado and want to head for Comuna 13, you can take the metro to San Antonio and change lines to the terminus at San Javier. The walk through residential neighbourhoods felt relatively safe before arriving at what is a rather hectic tourist area. The walk back down to Laureles is pleasant, passing through the residential neighbourhood of Santa Monica.
Centro & Parque Natural Cerro El Volador
I was struggling to gauge the safety of the downtown area, so I explored it as part of a run. It was an exhilarating experience. The whole area feels frantic, but Calle 51 stood out as particularly seedy and debauched, reminiscent of an otherworldly sensation, like being at a festival at 6 AM. I wouldn't recommend making the journey to El Volador Park, which consists of a steep road winding up a hilltop. There have been reports of thefts in the area, though you're likely safer running than hiking it—or, better yet, avoiding it entirely.
El Poblado Loop
El Poblado is safe for running around - with the only challenge being the intense elevation when heading up into the hills of El Tesoro. Avenida El Poblado has some gentle inclines with a segregated cycle lane in stretches, which appears to be popular with locals.

Verdict

Positives
  • Incredible scenery.Entering Medellín from the road that takes you from the airport is one of the most dramatic entrances to a city I can recall. After going through a five-mile tunnel, you arrive at the top of a valley, with the city's informal housing settlements stretching up to inconceivable heights in the hills. The frequently low-lying clouds and movement of the sun throughout the valley often create dramatic, vivid scenes, frequently modulating on the whims of the weather.
  • An abundance of green, luscious vegetation.It appears a significant intentional effort has been made to preserve the native flora of the region, with tropical plant life providing a distinctive and serene urban setting.
  • Fun, lively atmosphere.If you're looking to blow off some steam in the evenings away from your computer, there are noticeably more accessible options than in Bogotá. El Poblado is awash with bars and clubs catering to every taste, seven nights a week.
  • Warm, comfortable weather.With warmer daytime temperatures which don't drop too severely at night and a notable absence of insects or other tropical nuisances, Medellín offers something quite appealing, as long as you can tolerate occasional (somtimes frequent) rain. All across the city, there is great architectural use of this mild climate, with restaurants and bars blending indoor and outdoor spaces.
  • A highly effective metro system.Given how bad the traffic can be in the city, the metro provides a quick and reliable way to navigate the spine of the city from north to south. It can get highly congested, so if you want to avoid being squeezed up against someone's back, travel outside of peak hours.
Negatives
  • A visible and indiscreet seedier side.The volume of prostitution and drug dealing around Parque Lleras is a significant blight on the city. Looking remotely Caucasian, you're likely to be pestered by drug dealers posing as watch salesmen every time you pass through the area. Excusable if passing through for a week but it quickly becomes tedious.
  • Insanely hilly.Whilst the slopes provide incredible scenery, it can be taxing if attempting to traverse the city on foot. Paved side walks frequently disappear and the extent of the inclines can far exceed what you might want as part of your morning commute.
  • Terrible traffic.The small narrow roads leading up to El Tesoro and Los Naranjos routinely become gridlocked in the evenings from 17:00 - 19:00. Even the main highways begin to suffer, making getting from one side of the city to another laborious.
  • Still not an entirely safe city.You don't have to look too hard on forums like Reddit for stories of people who had been living without issue in the city for six months, only to get held up at gunpoint the next day. These incidents appear to be in the minority but occur at a frequency which exceeds what you would expect in Europe.
Tips
  • If you’re taking the airport bus, ensure you have cash on hand.Payments can also be made with the Civica card, which you’re unlikely to have upon arrival. Since much of the journey is speed-restricted due to passing through a large tunnel, there may not be a significant difference in travel time compared to a taxi, depending on where you’re staying. The buses depart every 15 minutes from outside the arrivals hall.
  • A physical SIM card from Claro offers significantly better value than eSIM equivalents.These can be purchased in-store without the need for a passport or ID and topped up after 30 days.
  • Rappi & DiDi Food are the main options for food delivery.Well worth the $4,000 pesos when using Rappi for the 'Turbo' option to get exclusive delivery of your food. The combination of evening traffic and drivers doing multiple stops means 60 min+ waits are not uncommon.
  • There is widespread availability of cards in businesses of all sizes.A UK Monzo card worked flawlessly for cash withdrawaks, incurring a £3 charge at most ATMs. It doesn't hurt to carry around a few thousand pesos to pick up an empanada or fruit juice from a street stall.
  • Tipping is generally managed through the inclusion of a Propina Voluntaria.In most places, you will be cheerfully asked if you would like to add the voluntary service charge of 10%. This further reduces the need to carry cash or calculate a reasonable tipping amount.
  • Consider a trip to Envigado.A city in it's own right and reachable via only a few stops on the metro, it felt like a more authentic version of Colombian life, with little traces of the saturation of tourism that you see further north with it's own historic ties to drug trafficking and cartel rule.
The Medellín metro was surprisingly effective. Clean, safe, modern cars serve the main urban areas. You can purchase a Cívica card for 10,000 pesos, with journeys costing 4,000 each. Bring cash to the station and anticipate a queue to purchase the card on the initial visit.
Most wet days typically followed a similar pattern: heavy, threatening clouds in the morning, a heavy downpour between 14:00 and 17:00, and a brief appearance of the sun before sunset.

Get insured with SafetyWing

If you're considering a trip of over 30 days abroad, you may want to consider dedicated travel insurance to ensure you have adequate protection
Sign up and get $20 off
Learn more open_in_new

Fee-free withdrawals with Monzo

I've used Monzo abroad religiously for the last 4 years with zero issues in any country. A worthy addition to any wallet
Set up an account & earn £5
Learn more open_in_new

Get international data with an Airalo eSIM

A hassle-free alternative to physical SIM cards, with strong global availability
Get $3 USD off
Learn more open_in_new