Peru
Oct 2024
2 weeks

Lima

An unexpected South American gem

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
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[Description}

One of the world's driest capitals and a renowned culinary hotspot.

Shaped by a blend of Inca, colonial, and Chinese influences, the city’s unique culture and identity have evolved over time, playing a key role in its development as one of South America's largest cities.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

Lima vastly exceeded my expectations in every department, and I would make it a must-visit on any South American itinerary. I would wholeheartedly recommend it for a month's stay.

🌎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

Lima vastly exceeded my expectations in every department, and I would make it a must-visit on any South American itinerary. I would wholeheartedly recommend it for a month's stay.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

Lima vastly exceeded my expectations in every department, and I would make it a must-visit on any South American itinerary. I would wholeheartedly recommend it for a month's stay.

👎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

Lima vastly exceeded my expectations in every department, and I would make it a must-visit on any South American itinerary. I would wholeheartedly recommend it for a month's stay.

🛫
Peruvian Sol (PEN)
11 million
💰 Great value
🏝️ Great for a holiday
🥇 Top rated
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

After finishing up 5 weeks in Colombia I flew from Medellín to Lima hoping two weeks would be sufficient to get a feel for a country I knew little of besides being the home of Paddington Bear and Ceviche. I was pleasantly surprised.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
86
%

Airbnb is fantastic value in Lima and on a par with what you may find for a similar price in Bangkok. Of the cities two most popular areas for tourists, Miraflores felt marginally more expensive than Barranco, but both areas possess plenty of new build apartment complexes at prices lower than what you'd be paying for a box room in London.

I stayed at the condo complex at Av. Almte. Miguel Grau 1430 which was generally clean, quiet and well maintained.

Unless staying during the peak summer months (December - April), the daytime temperatures weren't regularly high enough to specifically warrant having convenient access to a pool. Temperatures can reach up to 30 degrees, and with residential A/C not being common, you may want to factor that into your consideration if planning on working from home.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%

Most of the city's coworking hubs can be found in Miraflores and Barranco, but there are numerous options dotted across much of the city. WeWork has five good-quality locations, with three of them based in the San Isidro area, which is renowned for being a hub for business in the city, yet slightly further away from the main entertainment districts.

Specialty coffee shops are generally open later than you would find in Europe and can provide an alternative option until around 20:00 in the evening if needed.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
92
%

Day-to-day expenses can be exceptionally good value across Lima. Lunches from traditional Peruvian restaurants can be found for under 20 soles (£4) across the city, generally featuring a starter, main, and drink.

Meals from more international restaurants can be found for closer to 40 soles (£8), and higher-end options begin to reflect prices you may find in Europe.

Drinks from coffee shops or bars can generally be found for half the price of what you would expect to pay in a European capital. Most routine Uber rides between Barranco and Miraflores are unlikely to exceed 15 soles (£3).

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
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Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
84
%

Whilst never bordering on hectic, there's a great ambience around the core areas of Lima. From 6 AM, the streets are alive with people running before work, and there's always a lively presence on the streets along the core retail areas in Miraflores and Barranco that's felt late into the evening.

Bars and restaurants generally liven up a lot later than you would find in the UK, with the nightlife across the city showing no signs of quietening down until well after midnight.

Working hours

Peru Standard Time (PET) is year-round GMT-5, placing it right on the edge of where you can comfortably work to maintain some overlap with European colleagues. I would generally start each day at 06:30 local time, finishing a couple of hours earlier than normal.

For anyone maintaining North American hours, Lima's position is ideal, aligning perfectly with Eastern Time during US Standard Time, and with Central Time during US Daylight Saving Time.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
The coastal path stretching north from Barranco, known as the Malecón de Miraflores, is exceptionally well-landscaped and runs for around 4 miles. The stretch features parks, tennis courts, skateparks and cafes, and is especially popular with families at weekends.
The coastal path stretching north from Barranco, known as the Malecón de Miraflores, is exceptionally well-landscaped and runs for around 4 miles. The stretch features parks, tennis courts, skateparks and cafes, and is especially popular with families at weekends.
A street food cevichería serving generous combination plates featuring fresh ceviche, arroz verde (green rice with herbs), yellow pasta, and crispy seafood. These street side cevicherías appeared uncommon around Miraflores and Barranco, but could be seen more widely in the central and northern districts. A large bowl cost around 20 soles (£4).
A street food cevichería serving generous combination plates featuring fresh ceviche, arroz verde (green rice with herbs), yellow pasta, and crispy seafood. These street side cevicherías appeared uncommon around Miraflores and Barranco, but could be seen more widely in the central and northern districts. A large bowl cost around 20 soles (£4).
It's well worth spending an afternoon exploring the Centro Histórico, about a 30-minute drive north of Miraflores. Compared to the modern skyline of the southern neighbourhoods, the area surrounding Plaza Mayor De Lima is full of historic buildings, including the cathedral, which dates back to the 1600s.
It's well worth spending an afternoon exploring the Centro Histórico, about a 30-minute drive north of Miraflores. Compared to the modern skyline of the southern neighbourhoods, the area surrounding Plaza Mayor De Lima is full of historic buildings, including the cathedral, which dates back to the 1600s.

Where to stay

Most of the advice I saw prior to arriving suggested staying between Miraflores and Barranco, which, on reflection, I would entirely agree with.

If you are planning a longer stay, however, you shouldn't be confined to those areas, and I definitely wouldn't rule out some of the more residential surrounding neighbourhoods, but they would likely make you more reliant on a car.

Would avoid
Recommended
Miraflores
The modern hub of Lima, home to numerous restaurants and bars, with panoramic views over the South Pacific. It covers a large geographical area, with Parque Kennedy serving as its central point. It is widely considered to be safe, clean, well-maintained and well-landscaped. A reliable choice for first-time visitors, where you are likely to spend the majority of your time.
Would avoid
Recommended
Barranco
Where I most recently stayed: Barranco offers a more bohemian and architecturally classic experience of Lima. I'd suggest staying in the northern part of the district, close to the Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC), which is a 10-minute walk to Miraflores. Barranco feels less like you are in the inner city, with more of a local, neighbourhood ambience. Its roads are quieter and its building stock hinges between some romantic classically antiquated pieces and others in a state of disrepair.
Would avoid
Recommended
San Isidro
An upmarket and predominantly residential neighbourhood near three WeWork sites, suitable for extended stays. The area around Bosque El Olivar (a historic olive grove with trees dating to colonial times) is particularly well-maintained and ideal for evening runs. Walking time to Miraflores varies between 25-40 minutes, depending on location.
Would avoid
Recommended
Centro Histórico
While staying near the Centro Histórico might appeal for a brief holiday, most visitors spend the majority of their time in the southern neighbourhoods, typically a 30-60 minute drive away, depending on traffic. Worth visiting but not ideal as a base.

Where to work

WeWork - Av. José Larco
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

A convenient option set in the heart of Miraflores.

There's very little about this particular WeWork to get overtly excited about, but of the five sites across Lima, it offers by far the most convenient access assuming you are staying in Miraflores or neighbouring Barranco.

The All Access space is situated on the 12th floor, which was generally half-full throughout each of the days I visited, offering a great view of the Lima skyline. On the 13th floor, there's a large roof terrace with seating and several phone booths dispersed around.

There are some fantastic coffee shops within a 5-minute walk (Puku Puku, Sol, Milimétrica) and the in-house café provides cakes throughout the day, with hot lunches delivered on demand at 13:00. Each of WeWork's Lima sites appeared to offer an incredibly generous 7-hour slot for beer on Fridays, should you fancy an early finish to the week and a hangover to start your weekend.

A solid, if unspectacular, place to set up base for a couple of weeks.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

The proposed Digital Nomad Visa aims to enable foreigners who work independently or are employed by companies outside Peru, utilising digital communication technologies and systems, to apply for and obtain resident status in Peru.

It is crucial to note that the Digital Nomad Visa will not permit foreigners to work for Peruvian companies or generate any income within Peru. All income must be earned abroad whilst residing in Peru.

Like other Peruvian resident visas, the Digital Nomad Visa will be valid for up to one year, with the possibility of extension.

At present (September 2024), the administrative regulations required to implement Legislative Decree 1582 and activate the Digital Nomad Visa have not yet been published. There has been no announcement regarding the timeline for implementation, and the specific requirements for foreign applicants and application procedures remain undefined.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of October 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • A radically different security prospect from Colombia.There felt a much larger physical space on the ground you could freely explore in Lima compared to either Bogotá or Medellín. One day I covered 15 miles on foot from south to north with the type of freedom you would expect in a European city. Not only would such an endeavour be unwise in Colombia, but neither of the cities I visited felt there was sufficient need to cover that much ground on foot. There's a much wider selection of districts that would warrant visiting, rather than what felt like small isolated pockets in both Colombian cities.
  • Walking around Barranco and Miraflores felt safe late into the evening.The main streets are still busy past midnight, with nightlife generally starting a lot later than you'd expect in many parts of Europe.
  • The Centro Histórico is considered safe during the daytime.It felt a world away from the La Candelaria areas I visited in Bogotá and Medellín and somewhere you should have no hesitation in visiting.
  • From everything I read, Callao is an area that should be avoided.One area which was frequently flagged as a no-go area was the district immediately surrounding the airport. There's no seemingly legitimate reason why you would choose to explore this area so if you've got a couple of hours to kill between flights, grab an Uber south. If you are based in Miraflores or Barranco, it felt highly unlikely you could wander into an unsafe area.
  • It is not a city immune to serious crime.While pickpocketing and phone snatching are apparently common and likely to be the main threats to be concerned about, the city has recent problems with extortion rackets and violent crime. While these issues should not directly affect tourists, it's important to be aware of the environment, as they are evidence of wider Lima still being some distance from European safety standards.

Off work

Explore the Centro Histórico

If staying in Miraflores or Barranco for a couple of nights, you could easily miss the Centro Histórico, but it's worth the journey north to see a completely different side of the city compared to the more modern south.

Lima’s Centro Histórico, founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its colonial architecture. Key landmarks include Plaza Mayor, Lima Cathedral, and the Convent of San Francisco. The historic district, with its "Damero de Pizarro" grid, showcases 608 monuments, preserving its legacy despite frequent earthquakes and historical turbulence.

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Duration & season

This was one occasion where I definitely felt I misjudged the time I had planned to spend, and in an entirely positive way. There's enough going in Lima's favour that I would highly recommend a month to anyone without hesitation. Two weeks were enough to see most sights within the city but left no time to explore the rest of the country outside work.

Between December and April is considered the peak summer season, where you're likely to get the warmest temperatures, but October was mild and dry with cool, refreshing evenings. Most days featured heavy morning cloud, generally subsiding by the mid-afternoon for a prolonged sunset.

Food & drink

Pentagonito loop
·
Run
Directly to the east of San Borja, the area surrounding the Pentagonito is a quiet and well-landscaped area around Parque de la Felicidad, with secluded bike paths and running tracks. It's a fairly long distance back and forth if starting from Barranco.
San Borja - San Isidro
·
Run
Running between San Borja and San Isidro is a great way to explore these higher-end and partly residential neighbourhoods. Cycle and running paths can be found around the Parque de la Familia, with tree-lined avenues covering much of the roads connecting the areas.
Barranco Beach Loop
·
Walk
There’s not much to see south of the Parque Municipal de Barranco, but if you follow it down for another mile, you can loop back around from Playa Agua Dulce and head back towards Miraflores. A number of food and drink options can be found along the beachfront close to Playa Los Yuyos.

People

There was a noticeably increased tourist presence in the city compared to anything I saw in Colombia.

Lima appeared to attract two types of tourists who could be grouped into distinct buckets, identifiable by their footwear. Hiking-boot-wearing European couples en route to Machu Picchu or Americans strolling around in Havaianas. This concentration is likely to be felt surrounding Av. José Larco and Av. Almte. Miguel Grau, but the presence soon dissipates once away from these core areas.

I saw little evidence of a remote work community in the city, but there's undoubtedly an international feel across much of Miraflores. English is spoken sparsely.

Exercise

Pentagonito loop
Directly to the east of San Borja, the area surrounding the Pentagonito is a quiet and well-landscaped area around Parque de la Felicidad, with secluded bike paths and running tracks. It's a fairly long distance back and forth if starting from Barranco.
keyboard_arrow_down
San Borja - San Isidro
Running between San Borja and San Isidro is a great way to explore these higher-end and partly residential neighbourhoods. Cycle and running paths can be found around the Parque de la Familia, with tree-lined avenues covering much of the roads connecting the areas.
keyboard_arrow_down
Barranco Beach Loop
There’s not much to see south of the Parque Municipal de Barranco, but if you follow it down for another mile, you can loop back around from Playa Agua Dulce and head back towards Miraflores. A number of food and drink options can be found along the beachfront close to Playa Los Yuyos.
keyboard_arrow_down
Pentagonito loop
Directly to the east of San Borja, the area surrounding the Pentagonito is a quiet and well-landscaped area around Parque de la Felicidad, with secluded bike paths and running tracks. It's a fairly long distance back and forth if starting from Barranco.
San Borja - San Isidro
Running between San Borja and San Isidro is a great way to explore these higher-end and partly residential neighbourhoods. Cycle and running paths can be found around the Parque de la Familia, with tree-lined avenues covering much of the roads connecting the areas.
Barranco Beach Loop
There’s not much to see south of the Parque Municipal de Barranco, but if you follow it down for another mile, you can loop back around from Playa Agua Dulce and head back towards Miraflores. A number of food and drink options can be found along the beachfront close to Playa Los Yuyos.

Verdict

Positives
  • A unique and distinctive cuisine.The presence of Chinese influences, mixed with Latin American elements, creates an original and varied national cuisine. Dishes such as Ceviche, Lomo Saltado and Pollo a la Brasa are likely to have universal appeal and can be found inexpensively across the city.
  • Convenient beach access.Lima's beaches won't win too many awards but having them on your doorstep is a convenient feature. If staying in Miraflores or Barranco you can be a ten-minute walk away, providing a great backdrop for sunsets. There is a year-round swell, making surfing popular at various spots along the coastline.
  • Top-quality coffee culture.The domestic coffee scene was on a par with what I saw across Colombia, with impressive speciality shops to be found in most neighbourhoods.
  • Well-landscaped public spaces.Considering Lima sits within such a dry and arid region of Peru, the city has done a remarkably good job of creating and maintaining green vegetation throughout the core urban areas.
  • A great city to explore on foot.The 'Malecón de Miraflores' is a great path which takes you along the cliff face, particularly popular with families at weekends before sunset. You can walk freely with a degree of confidence which would be unwise in other countries across the continent.
  • A dry and predictable climate.After a particularly sodden period in Colombia, the consistently dry, desert-like nature of Peru was warmly welcomed.
  • Lots to explore domestically.You could plan a great two-month itinerary making use of the weekends to explore Machu Picchu, Cusco or Máncora, with internal flights reasonably priced. Two weeks gave a great window to explore the city, but no room to comfortably explore the rest of the country.
  • Exceptionally good value if earning a foreign currency.In Miraflores, you have close to European-quality amenities but at around half the price of what you would expect to pay for most day-to-day expenses. It significantly over-indexes when you consider the cost-to-quality ratio.
Negatives
  • ATM fees are extortionately high.Expect to pay between 25-40 soles (£5-£7) for a withdrawal fee, depending on which bank you have the pleasure of dealing with. It's worth taking out a couple of hundred soles at the start of the trip to ensure you can visit any cash-only bodegas, or pick up some ever-tempting street-side churros. This does make tipping more difficult in restaurants, where you're less likely to freely have cash on hand.
  • Watch out when crossing the roads.Zebra crossings and green pedestrian lights appear to hold little value, with drivers showing little care for whether anyone is crossing or not. The car is undoubtedly king in Lima, and the city is plagued with serious traffic congestion issues across the city during peak hours.
  • Public transport could be improved.While Lima has a metro system, it lacks stations in Miraflores and Barranco, making it less convenient for visitors. An upcoming extension should eventually connect Miraflores. The Metropolitano bus, running north-south on dedicated lanes, offers an alternative, but due to overcrowding during peak hours, it's unlikely to be a practical option.
Tips
  • If you need to pick up any clothing or footwear, it's worth heading to Polvos Azules.Situated just outside the Centro Histórico, this sprawling indoor bazaar has a vast array of questionably acquired but supposedly genuine trainers and apparel. Be prepared to haggle.
  • If looking for a gym pass in Barranco, head to MASTERGYM.A day pass costs just 12 soles, which is payable in either cash or by card. Rustic, with most equipment appearing to be from the 1980s, but its in an incredibly convenient locatiom with friendly, accommodating staff.
  • Debit & credit card acceptance in retail stores and restaurants is generally excellent.The only reason you may need cash is to pick up some street-side ceviche or if visiting a particularly rustic-looking bodega.
  • A tourist SIM can be purchased at several tourist information centres in Miraflores.If you want to avoid the seemingly constant 30+ person deep queues in a local Claro store, this store is a great option, even if more expensive by local standards. Plans are available for 7, 14 and 30 days with a passport required to purchase. eSIMs available in the country but at unappealing rates for data plans.
  • Uber availability is great throughout the city.A taxi from the airport to Miraflores/Barranco should cost around 50 soles and take approximately 45 minutes depending on traffic. Traffic can be frequently gridlocked throughout the city, so try to avoid making the journey during peak hours.
Juanito Barranco is a classic bodega serving up a range of sandwiches with cured meats and the best draught beer sampled in the city. Expertly made pisco sours are also available. The bar is cash-only, so be sure to have some soles on hand.
The Gran Hotel Bolívar in Lima is often incorrectly credited as the birthplace of the pisco sour. Whilst it has become synonymous with the drink in recent years due to offering a "Catedral" size option, after much fervent discussion with locals, Bar Morris is regarded as its true birthplace. Strong, sweet, and immediately distinctive.
Whilst it excels when it comes to food and drink, I struggled to find shopping options in Miraflores itself. The Larcomar shopping centre is sunken into the cliff face and is one of your best bets for picking up any items on the move.
Halloween is a big deal throughout Lima, with what felt like the city's entire population congregating at Parque Kennedy. It's 100% worth getting involved if your trip coincides with that period.

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