Rio de Janeiro
Everything you thought it might be - and more.
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Founded in 1565, Rio de Janeiro grew from colonial port to one of the world's most identifiable urban landscapes where beaches, mountains, and city life blend to create its unique Carioca culture.
A spectacular destination in so many ways, but one best experienced on holiday to ensure you get the most out of it. Well worth visiting at least once in your lifetime.
A spectacular destination in so many ways, but one best experienced on holiday to ensure you get the most out of it. Well worth visiting at least once in your lifetime.
A spectacular destination in so many ways, but one best experienced on holiday to ensure you get the most out of it. Well worth visiting at least once in your lifetime.
A spectacular destination in so many ways, but one best experienced on holiday to ensure you get the most out of it. Well worth visiting at least once in your lifetime.
What trip to South America would be complete without a visit to Rio?
After a remarkably incident-free trip throughout the continent, I was a little hesitant about visiting a city that had garnered as many criticisms for its safety as praise for its beauty.
Less than 24 hours was all it took to dismiss any lingering fears.
Modern and affordable accommodation isn't one of Rio's strong points. A combination of high seasonal tourist demand and a relative shortage of modern building stock means that, more than in other cities, you really need to book as far in advance as possible when planning a month-long stay.
At under a £1,000 monthly rate, much of the available accommodation in the streets behind Ipanema and Copacabana tends to be smaller, more dated studio units, and represents a substantial drop in size, specification and amenities compared to the same price as in say Buenos Aires.
Expect to pay an increasing premium the closer you get to the beachfront, especially towards Leblon. Prices spike dramatically during Carnival (late February/March), so unless you're specifically visiting for the festival, book around the entire period to avoid significantly inflated rates.
Accommodation costs are one of the reasons why I didn't feel that Rio was particularly well suited to remote work. While by global standards the prices remain good value, the premiums you are likely to pay to be based next to the beach or to visit during peak seasons are probably not justified when you are on a work-oriented trip.
In both Airbnbs I stayed in during my time in Brazil, there were notably strict security measures for building access. In both Rio and São Paulo, you needed to identify yourself at the main security entrance before being allowed into the building. While the security is welcome, it does create a degree of friction when passing through the building.
There's a more than adequate selection of coworking spaces across each of the key neighbourhoods from Leblon to Centro, but notably fewer top-quality options than you'd expect from a more renowned remote work hub.
WeWork has two options remaining, both in the slightly inconvenient Centro district, which, unless you already have membership access, probably aren't worth considering.
Arca Hub in Ipanema looked like one of the best options in terms of location and quality, and somewhere I would aim to be within close proximity to on a return visit.
Having spent the last month in both Buenos Aires and Santiago - Rio felt like incredible value as of December 2024. Eating out represented some of the best value you could find on the continent.
Filling, tasty local meals at lanchonetes can be found for around £5, with more sophisticated international options coming under £10. Speciality coffee and patisserie items are on par with the quality you would expect from somewhere twice the price, if not higher, in European cities.
Depending on where you head to, drinks in bars can be particularly inexpensive, with large bottles of beer available for a couple of pounds in casual outlets, though expect those prices to rise naturally in more sophisticated venues.
Even in the countless beachside bars, which are typically tourist traps wherever you set foot globally, costs remain consistently reasonable, offering similar prices and quality for food and drink to what you'd expect elsewhere in the city.
Metro tickets cost under £1, and getting around in the evenings via Uber is particularly inexpensive.
I can't think of many more exciting cities to visit for a week than Rio. It is so utterly distinctive in every perceptible way, especially over a weekend.
The rhythms of samba music appearing in the street, the ubiquitous flip-flops, the diabetes-inducing sweetness of a £2 Caipirinha on a crowded beach. Everything you've read, watched and heard about the city in this regard is probably completely true.
During the week, Centro feels like a conventional downtown business district where you can get on with your workday if you need some compartmentalisation between your working hours and free time.
If you love the beach and plan on spending a good proportion of your weekends on the sand, there may not be too many better options globally. It's not something I personally made the most of, as there would be no quicker way of being parted from your personal belongings than leaving them unattended at any point.
The major east coast cities operate on Brasília Time (BRT), which is GMT-3, putting them 3-4 hours behind most European time zones and 1-2 hours ahead of US Eastern Time throughout the year.
I started work at 7AM each day and while it required some earlier nights, it was easily achievable to remain in sync with colleagues across Europe.
If you’re working from Rio rather than on holiday, you’re likely to have a slightly different set of priorities than a traditional holidaymaker. If you’re spending 40 hours a week in a coworking space rather than on the beach, paying a beachside premium may not make as much sense, and in turn, you have a wider selection of areas to consider.
The bad news is that quality, affordable accommodation isn’t abundant in Rio. The good news is that each of these neighbourhoods follows one another on a metro line, meaning you are never more than 30 minutes from one end to the other.
Rio is a gigantic metropolis - but as a visitor, you'll likely want to be based somewhere in the vast area known as Zona Sul.
WeWork no longer has a site in the more desirable southern neighbourhoods of the city, so if you're planning to make use of a membership in the city, the two remaining options are more than likely going to require a morning commute.
I opted for Av. Alm. Barroso, 81, which is the larger of the two sites and sits in the actual centre of the CBD, as opposed to the other site in the Bossa Nova Mall.
WeWork occupies the majority of the floors of this 24-storey building, with the All Access areas available on the 22nd, 23rd and the largest area of dedicated desks situated on the 24th. Being so high up you've got incredible views looking out towards Guanabara Bay with Sugarloaf Mountain periodically peaking through the clouds coming over.
The areas on the 22nd and 23rd are a bit more ambient with the usual pool tables, ping pong and large in-house supermarket-style facility which is handy to pick up snacks throughout the day. The 23rd floor boasts a spacious balcony with plenty of workspace options.
Centro is a great area to explore during the work week and venturing around on foot felt entirely safe with an enormous working population commuting in each morning. There's some decent coffee options on hand with The Coffee & Coffee Five reachable in a few minutes and countless good food options within a ten-minute walk. For a quick, traditional and inexpensive lunch, look no further than Restaurante Jovem Guarda.
Is it worth 30 minutes commuting up from either Ipanema or Leblon? If you are only in town for a couple of weeks and already have WeWork access it probably is. If you don't already have access or are planning on staying longer? I'd find something closer to home and save yourself the commute.
Brazil introduced a remote worker visa in January 2022. Applications must be made in person at a Brazilian consulate.
The visa allows remote workers employed by foreign companies to live in Brazil for one year, with the option to renew for a second year. Applicants must provide proof of foreign employment/income, demonstrate monthly earnings of $1,500+ or $18,000 in savings, hold valid Brazilian private medical insurance, and submit a criminal clearance certificate from their home country.
Processing time is typically 3-4 weeks. Requirements for dependents are not yet clearly defined.
No matter the duration of your trip, it's well worth putting some time aside to explore the national park which, when looking at the map, appears as the large green expanse towering above the city's west, offering incredible views over Zona Sul.
Most visitors to the city will want to take in the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue which is at the far east of this area in a self-contained, ticketed site, accessible via the Cosme Velho train and is a convenient place to start. Arrive as early in the day as possible to avoid the inevitable rush of visitors later on.
On the opposite side you have hikes of varying difficulty including Pedra da Gávea and Pedra Bonita, the first of which you may want to plan specifically for.
Over the weekend I visited, the roads connecting the rolling hills were well populated with runners and cyclists, and it felt safe to be exploring such areas unaccompanied.
One week was just about long enough to get a good feel for Rio, and that was with being particularly fortunate to get a full weekend of sunshine to explore outdoors properly.
If you can find a good apartment within your budget, there's more than enough to occupy your time for a month. Consider visiting from September to December or after Carnival (late February/March) until May to get better value than in the peak season.
I wouldn't entertain the idea of combining Carnival with a working visit if you harbour any ambitions of being productive during that period. Attending Rio Carnival has now become a bucket list item for me, but that would be strictly during annual leave with my laptop shut and Slack notifications firmly disabled.
As you would expect, you'll find tourists from all across the world visiting Rio, with those numbers inevitably peaking towards the Carnival season.
Even though the city has such a renowned reputation as being a tourist draw, that presence never felt anywhere close to being overly saturated, even in Leblon and Ipanema which both felt they still fully embodied the relaxed and festive Carioca culture.
You don't have to drift too far for the tourist presence to drop off almost entirely, and in somewhere like Flamengo, there's little indication that you are in such an internationally renowned destination.
There was little presence of international remote workers in the WeWork I visited - in fact, I believe I was the only European on the floor I worked from - but that could in part be due to its location far away from the core tourist hubs.