Argentina
Nov 2024
2 weeks

Buenos Aires

Worthy of the hype? Yes.

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
°C ·
[Description}

A unique blend of European and South American influences.

Founded in the 16th century, Buenos Aires is shaped by Spanish colonial foundations, Italian urban planning, and French architectural styles, intertwined with its Latin American heritage.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.

🌎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.

Verdict:
Highly recommended

A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.

👎
Verdict:
Highly recommended

A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.

🛫
Argentinian Peso (ARP)
3.1 Million
🏝️ Great for a holiday
💻 Remote work hub
🥇 Top rated
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

Buenos Aires felt like one of the most hyped-up remote work destinations I'd read about. It's easy to see why. Heralded as a destination with European-esque infrastructure and safety but paired with South American prices, it's an obvious draw for people escaping the Northern Hemisphere's winter.

Yet, 12 months into President Milei's drastic but controversial attempts at economic reform, do those claims still hold true? Two weeks was just long enough to get a feel for the current climate in the city.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
87
%

Even amidst such economic upheaval, accommodation on Airbnb remains surprisingly good value. The city has a huge supply of apartment buildings, and you should be able to find a quality one-bedroom apartment for under £800 a month in an area of your choosing. That price can drop even further if you're willing to stay a little further out of Palermo or Recoleta.

I stayed in an Airbnb in the QUO Swim complex in Palermo Hollywood, which was well managed with a small on-site gym and pool. At current rates, prices are lower than what you'd find in practically any other major city, even within South-East Asia. Expect prices to rise during the peak summer months of January and February, so aim to travel outside those periods to get the most value.

Compared to other cities in Latin America, air conditioning is commonplace in Buenos Aires and essential during the summer. Unlike neighbouring Santiago, where temperatures drop dramatically in the evenings, even in November it was necessary.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
86
%

Unsurprisingly, given its reputation as a remote work hub, Buenos Aires offers no shortage of coworking spaces, with Palermo hosting the highest concentration. The city also boasts a vast number of speciality coffee shops, many featuring dedicated working areas that stay open into the early evening on weekdays, providing excellent alternatives.

WeWork operates four locations in the city, all easily accessible via public transport from Palermo. The site on Av. Corrientes stands out as particularly impressive, which I’ve covered in more detail later. Additionally, Santander’s Work Cafe locations serve as a convenient, free option which would suit occasional use.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
75
%

As of November 2024, Buenos Aires is on the more expensive end of what you might find across South America. If you were to analyse a month's expenses, dining out is the area where you will see a significant increase in spending compared to other cities. A combination of high food costs, coupled with a lack of lower-end restaurants in popular areas such as Palermo or Recoleta, means you'll struggle to find an evening meal for less than £12.

If you look a bit harder outside the immediate centres of Palermo and in less touristy but central areas such as Balvanera, you’ll find more traditional restaurants offering meals at lower prices. However, they may be less appealing than what you’d find in Lima or Bogotá.

I’d suggest budgeting as you would in a European city and being pleasantly surprised by what you have left, as certain elements remain significantly cheaper. Accommodation, coffee shops, transport, wine from the supermarket, and alcohol in bars all come in at varying degrees cheaper than what you'd pay in the UK.

Other items felt as if they carried a heavy premium, namely chocolate, electrical goods, unground coffee beans, and imported beer like Corona.

At present, Buenos Aires is not a destination to prioritise if cost is your primary concern. However, if you’re accustomed to European prices or higher, it shouldn't deter you. When comparing with other Latin American cities, it felt very much on a par with Santiago, yet with a lot greater choice of dining options.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
86
%

Assuming you love big cities, you won't get bored in Buenos Aires. The city is renowned for its energetic nightlife, with the best of the action not starting until well after midnight. If you're an early riser on the weekends, expect to see revellers continuing the party and showing no signs of weakness well into the following morning.

If, like this mid-30s writer, your hedonistic days are numbered, there is more to the city than heading to a club at 2AM.

There is a huge number of cultural attractions in the form of galleries and museums, and more than enough restaurants to explore over several months. Simply walking around its labyrinth of streets and green open spaces is satisfying in itself, with consistently high footfall throughout the city.

Working hours

Argentina operates on Argentina Standard Time (ART), which is consistently GMT-3 throughout the year. Unlike some other South American countries that shift their time zones seasonally, Argentina maintains a stable time zone.

Compared to Peru or Colombia, this makes it significantly easier to maintain a similar working day to colleagues in Europe, requiring no major changes to your daily schedule. For North Americans, this puts you marginally ahead of Eastern Standard Time and in a good place to maintain any work schedules with little adjustment.

One thing to consider is that if there is one country in the world where you don't want to be going to bed early, it's Argentina. With dinners routinely starting around 10 PM and the nightlife continuing until the daylight hours, you may struggle to maintain a schedule aligned with European hours if attempting to burn the candle at both ends.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Looking towards Plaza de la República from the 38th floor of the WeWork at Av. Corrientes, the views alone make it a place worth seriously considering for working during your time in the city. By far, it offers the best views of any of their locations—one of the highest viewpoints in the CBD.
Looking towards Plaza de la República from the 38th floor of the WeWork at Av. Corrientes, the views alone make it a place worth seriously considering for working during your time in the city. By far, it offers the best views of any of their locations—one of the highest viewpoints in the CBD.
With sky-high ATM fees, poor exchange rates, and FX fees, getting your hands on cash can be more challenging in Argentina than almost anywhere else. While in 2024 it’s quite feasible to go entirely cashless using a card, you'll still need cash to use the metro or shop in smaller stores. In November 2024, £100 translated to approximately 139,000 Argentine pesos, distributed in a large brick.
With sky-high ATM fees, poor exchange rates, and FX fees, getting your hands on cash can be more challenging in Argentina than almost anywhere else. While in 2024 it’s quite feasible to go entirely cashless using a card, you'll still need cash to use the metro or shop in smaller stores. In November 2024, £100 translated to approximately 139,000 Argentine pesos, distributed in a large brick.
The park surrounding Lago de Regatas felt particularly in bloom in late November. The city is home to an enormous variety of foliage, and it’s not uncommon to see exotic, pine, and deciduous trees placed side by side.
The park surrounding Lago de Regatas felt particularly in bloom in late November. The city is home to an enormous variety of foliage, and it’s not uncommon to see exotic, pine, and deciduous trees placed side by side.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

I can't recall many cities having such a large number of livable and attractive neighbourhoods as Buenos Aires. Unlike other cities in South America, where only small fractions of the city are viable choices due to safety concerns or a lack of amenities, you have an overwhelming number of options at your disposal.

Most guidance I came across prior suggested staying somewhere in the large expanse that is Palermo, and from what I experienced, that would be sound advice for most people.

With so many choices on Airbnb, my advice would be to plan where you intend to work from and find the best apartment you can within your desired commute. Unlike other cities, no one location felt like it was the overwhelmingly obvious choice.

Would avoid
Recommended
Recoleta
A great option for first-time visitors as it places you equidistant between Palermo and Retiro with both neighbourhoods easily reachable by foot. Accommodation slightly more expensive but by no means prohibitive.
Would avoid
Recommended
Chacarita
A neighbourhood I would strongly recommend for a return visit. Bordering the north-west of Palermo, it offers a slightly more residential atmosphere with an impressive selection of quality coffee shops. The area provides convenient access to the B metro line, making it both tranquil yet well-connected.
Would avoid
Recommended
Palermo · Las Cañitas
I wandered through this area of Palermo several times en route to the parks and felt it to be a particularly endearing neighbourhood. Close to Lago de Regatas, making it an ideal location if you're prioritising places to exercise, as you can avoid having to cross the train tracks and main roads if coming from Soho or Hollywood.
Would avoid
Recommended
Palermo · Hollywood
Where I most recently stayed. Separated from Palermo Soho by an overground train line and a ten-minute walk to the other side. It draws its name from being home to several TV and film studios. It has a very similar feel to Palermo Soho, with more of a focus on higher-end dining. Not a great place for picking up quick, inexpensive meals in the evenings.
Would avoid
Recommended
Palermo · Soho
The heart of Palermo's shopping district with flagship stores for fashion brands, small cafes and bars open late into the night. Becomes noticeably livelier at night as it draws people in to its bars and restaurants. Easily reachable from surrounding areas, so I wouldn't be too concerned about being in the heart of it.
Would avoid
Recommended
Microcentro
The downtown, commercial centre of the city. Whilst not a popular area to live in, it would be by far the most viable of its equivalents I visited in South America. In a similar way that you wouldn't stay in the City of London or other central business districts, there's nicer places to base yourself over the weekends.
Would avoid
Recommended
Vicente López
Located 8km north of Palermo, you could viably stay up here and in the neighbouring areas with decent transport connections further south and a large WeWork. If it's your first time to the city, however, realistically too far from where you're likely to want to spend your time and missing some of the more lively ambience found further south.
Would avoid
Recommended
San Telmo
One of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city, located just south of Microcentro. Fun place to walk around with cobbled streets and markets but not somewhere I would consider staying, especially if it was my first time in the city. Reportedly not as safe as the more northern neighbourhoods.

Where to work

WeWork - Av. Corrientes
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Comfortably the best choice out of any of the city's four WeWork sites.

Situated just to the east of Plaza de la República, WeWork occupies the entirety of this 38-floor commercial building in the heart of the downtown area.

The main All Access area is based on the 38th floor, offering some of the best views across the city looking out onto the Río de la Plata and far into the distance. Within the top three views from any WeWork I've visited. On the 20th floor, there is a second communal area with the main community bar and a café serving reasonable coffee, sandwiches, and cakes.

The area around the building is ideal to explore during the daytime, with plenty of options for a quick bite to eat for breakfast or lunch.

Magic Coffee - Closest speciality coffee shop, had a great Peruvian bean on during my visit. Super friendly staff.

Empanadas KRYSS - Some of the tastiest and most generously filled Carne Picante empanadas I found, perfect quick breakfast option.

Food Time - If you are searching for a quick lunch, this pay-by-weight buffet is a popular option with local office workers, with an enormous variety of salads, meats, Argentine dishes, and a few local Chinese ones thrown in. Get there before 12:00 before the queues start.

I commuted from Palermo Hollywood and enjoyed the process of heading into the CBD daily. It's around a 25-minute ride on the underground, which was quiet and pleasant pre-7AM. If I was to return, I'd aim to be within a 45 minute walking distance. Worth considering getting a WeWork pass specifically for this site.

Other WeWork options in Buenos Aires:

Vicente Lopez - A huge site with plenty of seating options but, unless staying immediately in the area, too far out. Not as much of a buzz compared to the sites in the city. Great roof terrace for during the summer months.

Ing. Enrique Butty - A ten-minute walk away from Corrientes in the CBD, much smaller and with less dedicated seating. Would not prioritise.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Argentina introduced a digital nomad visa in May 2022, offering remote workers an attractive opportunity to legally stay in the country for up to 12 months. The visa is designed for professionals from countries with visa-free tourist entry to Argentina, targeting those with income sources outside the country. Applicants must demonstrate a monthly income of around £750-£2,000 and provide a clean criminal record.

The visa allows a 180-day initial stay, renewable for another 180 days, and costs approximately £160. It provides multiple entry privileges, enabling digital nomads to explore Argentina and surrounding countries. The Argentine government sweetens the deal with a welcome package at Buenos Aires airport, including discounts on airport transfers, first-night hotel stays, a complimentary SIM card, and a public transport card.

To apply, individuals must submit a comprehensive CV, detailed employment documentation, and verify their income sources. The visa offers a structured, legal alternative to overstaying, making it an appealing option for remote workers seeking to experience Argentina's vibrant culture and lifestyle while maintaining their professional commitments.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • Of all the cities I visited in South America, Buenos Aires felt the safest.There's a huge geographical area that you can explore on foot with the type of freedom you may expect in a European city. There's a high footfall across all the main arterial roads, with people roaming the streets late into the evening, accompanied by a visibly reassuring but not overbearing police presence across much of the city. Like any other major city, phone theft and petty crimes are still a reality of life.
  • There are, of course, areas you should avoid visiting at night.La Boca is considered an area you should be extra-aware of and avoid at night. You would be best advised to steer away from the neighbourhoods of informal housing north of Retiro, like Villa 31. Assuming that you are staying in Palermo or Recoleta, you are unlikely to wander into such areas inadvertently.
  • The metro and train system felt safe.You are likely to encounter a varied and colourful selection of characters across the underground and overland trains, often performing, begging, or acting highly intoxicated, but they never appeared threatening or coercive.
  • Keep an eye in your head of what something should cost.With such an unstable currency, high import costs, and a potential language barrier, it can be next to impossible to have a reference price for how much items should cost. For example, when attempting to purchase a UK plug adaptor in a phone shop in Palermo, I was initially quoted 8,000 pesos. Five minutes later and further down the road, I was able to buy two of the exact same items for under 2,000. Try to get a rough idea of how much something should cost before purchasing to avoid opportunistic retailers.

Off work

Catch a Boca Juniors game

After spending any amount of time in Buenos Aires, it will become apparent that this is a city that loves its football. I was lucky to have a colleague who was able to get some for a reasonable price, but tickets can be hard to come by and can reach several hundreds of dollars.

The La Bombonera stadium is in the heart of the Boca neighbourhood and has an electric atmosphere on match days. Even if you can't get your hands on a ticket, it's a great area to explore on foot. Pick up a traditional choripán (Chori) from one of the many street-side asados and wash it down with an XL fernet and coke.

If you can make it inside the stadium, expect relentlessly energetic music and chanting for 90 minutes, which, with Boca's recent form, may not be matched on the pitch.

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Duration & season

November felt like an ideal time to visit the city. Most days featured relentless sunshine, with the remainder a mix of heavy clouds and occasional storms. With daytime temperatures consistently in the late 20s, no more was needed than a shirt and T-shirt each day.

The peak summer season, during January and February, brings a marked increase in temperatures and visitor numbers, with many locals leaving for their own vacations. I didn't hear too many people excited about the intensity of the mid-summer heat.

Two weeks really felt like the bare minimum you would need in the city if spending the majority of your time working during the week. I’d have no hesitation recommending booking for a month, especially with the cost of accommodation being particularly favourable for longer stays.

Food & drink

Costanera Vicente Lopez
·
Run
A great spot to run next to the coast line with several miles of parks and green areas stretching up north and south of the Vicente López mitre station. Easily accessible if staying in Palermo.
Puerto Madero Loop
·
Run
A regenerated docklands area which sits just to the east of the city centre, also home to the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (unexpectedly closed when I attempted to visit). A nice route to run, uninterrupted by traffic. Head to the Plaza de Mayo metro station at the end of the A line.
Lago de Regatas
·
Run
Idyllic location for a run with a 2,000-metre perimeter around the lake making an ideal circuit. Very close to Lisandro de la Torre Mitre station and easily reachable if staying anywhere within Palermo.
Tres de Febrero Park
·
Run
Large park spanning 25 hectares and a popular place for locals in the evening for a run, cycle, or rollerblade. Perfect place to run after work with incredible sunsets reflecting off the lakes and nearby glass high-rises. Very convenient if staying in Palermo.

People

Buenos Aires felt comfortably the most cosmopolitan and international of the cities I had visited on the continent. I was anticipating a much higher number of remote workers given the attention the city has received, but on the ground, it didn’t feel too perceptible, aside from the occasional North American accent around Palermo and in the WeWork.

If you’re looking to meet others in a similar situation, it remains one of the best options I can recall globally, with numerous networks and events aimed at remote workers. The city draws in a number of expats from neighbouring countries, with Brazilians, Colombians, and Venezuelans all well represented.

Exercise

Costanera Vicente Lopez
A great spot to run next to the coast line with several miles of parks and green areas stretching up north and south of the Vicente López mitre station. Easily accessible if staying in Palermo.
keyboard_arrow_down
Puerto Madero Loop
A regenerated docklands area which sits just to the east of the city centre, also home to the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (unexpectedly closed when I attempted to visit). A nice route to run, uninterrupted by traffic. Head to the Plaza de Mayo metro station at the end of the A line.
keyboard_arrow_down
Lago de Regatas
Idyllic location for a run with a 2,000-metre perimeter around the lake making an ideal circuit. Very close to Lisandro de la Torre Mitre station and easily reachable if staying anywhere within Palermo.
keyboard_arrow_down
Tres de Febrero Park
Large park spanning 25 hectares and a popular place for locals in the evening for a run, cycle, or rollerblade. Perfect place to run after work with incredible sunsets reflecting off the lakes and nearby glass high-rises. Very convenient if staying in Palermo.
keyboard_arrow_down
Costanera Vicente Lopez
A great spot to run next to the coast line with several miles of parks and green areas stretching up north and south of the Vicente López mitre station. Easily accessible if staying in Palermo.
Puerto Madero Loop
A regenerated docklands area which sits just to the east of the city centre, also home to the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (unexpectedly closed when I attempted to visit). A nice route to run, uninterrupted by traffic. Head to the Plaza de Mayo metro station at the end of the A line.
Lago de Regatas
Idyllic location for a run with a 2,000-metre perimeter around the lake making an ideal circuit. Very close to Lisandro de la Torre Mitre station and easily reachable if staying anywhere within Palermo.
Tres de Febrero Park
Large park spanning 25 hectares and a popular place for locals in the evening for a run, cycle, or rollerblade. Perfect place to run after work with incredible sunsets reflecting off the lakes and nearby glass high-rises. Very convenient if staying in Palermo.

Verdict

Positives
  • There is an energetic and positive ambience in the city.I loved the atmosphere in Buenos Aires. I found the people incredibly warm and welcoming, and the streets maintained an energetic feel throughout the day and night. While never chaotic like an Asian city, it felt notably more alive than other cities on the continent.
  • It's easy to find great-quality accommodation.In 2024, there is a rapidly dwindling number of cities where you can find quality apartments at affordable monthly rates. Buenos Aires is one of those remaining places and currently offers even better value than you might find in a city like Bangkok.
  • A top-class selection of specialty coffee shops.Historically, coffee had been a drink of secondary status given the population's love of maté as their caffeinated beverage of choice. However, the last few years have reportedly seen an explosion in the number of specialty outlets, and you don't have to look too far to find great-quality international beans. Expect prices on the high end for Latin America yet cheaper than what you would find in say London.
  • The public transportation system is highly effective.The expansive metro and overground train network make getting across this large city simple. Commuting in the morning was a dramatic improvement over neighbouring Santiago, with significantly lower passenger numbers before 7 AM.
  • One of the safest places in South America.Being comfortably able to explore a city on foot is a key attraction for any city when considering a longer stay, and Buenos Aires comfortably ticks this box. When comparing with other capitals on the continent, there is little to be concerned about.
  • Beautiful outdoor parks.The cities parks, especially those bordering Palermo and Recoleta, are impeccably landscaped and the ideal places to soak up the long evening sunsets.
  • A great alternative to the European winter. If you can time your trip between the Argentine spring and summer, you're likely to be rewarded with idyllic conditions while winter makes its presence felt in the northern hemisphere.
  • An expansive and diverse country to explore.I didn't leave Buenos Aires on this occasion, but I'd love to return to see Patagonia, Salta, and Córdoba, which are all significant draws for domestic and international tourists.
Negatives
  • An expensive destination to get to.No matter where you are coming from, it is not a cheap destination to reach. Good value flights to the country are rare, and even if you are already within the region, flights often incur high international airport taxes, significantly increasing costs compared to other nearby countries.
  • There seemed to be many nuances that were exclusive to Argentina.While these do contribute somewhat to its charm, they also mean there’s a lot to get your head around. What is the blue dollar? How should you acquire pesos? Why am I being asked for my passport number when purchasing eggs in the supermarket? I found it certainly required more engagement with certain elements of bureaucracy than you might encounter elsewhere.
  • A somewhat monotonous grid layout.Much of the city follows a grid pattern, and with relatively uniform building stock and flat terrain, it lacks some of the more distinctive landscapes found in other cities on the continent, such as Santiago or Medellín.
  • Argentinian food was a little hit-and-miss.The deep-fried Milanesa and thick-crust pizzas didn't resonate with me and at current prices, Argentina's much-renowned steaks are definitely more of a luxury item that you won't be eating every night. On the contrary, empanadas are perfect snacks, Medialunas are an ideal accompaniment to your morning coffee and there's an enviable selection of domestically produced wines that seem to have escaped the worst of inflation. An honourable mention must also be given to the Choripan, which you probably don't want to weave into your daily diet unless seeking to expand your waistline.
Tips
  • Poverty is currently at very high levels throughout the country.The tough austerity measures introduced in an attempt to reinvigorate the national economy have led to poverty rates skyrocketing. 3.4 million Argentinians were pushed into poverty throughout 2024. If you're staying somewhere like Palermo as a visitor, in reality you’re unlikely to notice it firsthand, aside from the prevelance of rough sleepers in the metro. But it’s important context to have awareness of as many in the country endure an especially challenging period with an unclear future ahead.
  • A physical Claro SIM was good value for money.I would recommend going to their large store at Abasto de Buenos Aires which is based in the basement of the shopping centre. 20GB of data for one month can be purchased for £12. In order to get the SIM card you'll need to bring both your passport and specifically a physical copy of your credit card. Debit cards or contactless were not accepted.
  • Read up on the 'blue dollar'.You could quite feasibly get away with not engaging with any of the economic nuances of the country, but there's some important context to be gained by being aware of some of the challenges and complexities which the local population encounter on a daily basis. There's far too much for me to cover here but I found this article helpful and informative.
  • Be careful with ATM charges.I visited three ATMs on my first day to gauge withdrawal fees, all of which were charging 10,000 ARS (£8) to withdraw cash. Even though I rejected the transaction and withdrew my card, the account was still charged the fee which was later returned once contested 7 days later. If you are on a tight budget and don't want to run the risk of a similar situation occurring where you do not want to be out of pocket, avoid.
  • I found changing money most effective sending money to myself via Western Union.Getting your hands on pesos can be a cumbersome task with high ATM fees, low withdrawal limits and poor conversion rates. Download the Western Union app and transfer some money to yourself, if you are a new customer you get your first transaction for free (usually £7). You can then go to a store and collect the pesos directly, bring a copy of your passport and the transaction reference. The money was available for collection immediately after completing the transaction. I read reports of some outlets running out of Pesos as the day goes on but as the peso has stabilised somewhat, this doesn't appear to be as urgent anymore.
  • Argentina has specific plug sockets.I wouldn't bother bringing any with you but they will become a priority when you arrive. Most of the little bazaars around Palermo should stock them or you can order them to your house on Rappi. If staying for a longer period I would suggest purchasing a dedicated high voltage USB-C charger for a MacBook as it was often clunky attempting to fit a large MagSafe one into a lot of sockets.
  • Bring everything you need for your trip with you.With high import taxes and limited availability of certain items, you’re almost always better off buying any major essentials before visiting. This advice applies to much of South America but is particularly relevant given Argentina’s current economic situation.
  • To use the metro you will need a SUBE card.These can be bought from small off licenses all across the city. You will need cash to top them up in store. It is possible to top them up online using an Android only app, but you may lose the will to live before successfully getting the credits on the card. Currently you can store only under 10,000 pesos on the card so keep some cash on you to top up when required. It was recently announced that you will be able to pay for rides using any debit card, so check up to date information prior to your trip.
  • Google Maps listings were particularly unreliable.There is almost no point in trying to ascertain what the prices may be in a restaurant as even pictures of menus from 6 months ago will contain dangerously out of date prices. In addition, I found a lot of stores had incorrect opening hours. If planning a trip to any smaller store I'd double check if relying on them for whatever reason. This also extended to the Mitre train lines where departure times failed to align with what the app stated.
  • If looking for a barber I can recommend CAPITÁN BARBERÍA in Retiro.A men's cut cost 11,000 pesos which felt reasonable given the location and quality of shop. It can be found close to Plaza General San Martin and reservations can be booked in advance at +54 9 11 2400-4196.
  • Lex Fridman's recent podcast with Javier Milei is worth listening to.This two hour discussion is available in both Spanish and English and provides some useful supporting context to help understand the current situation within the country.
On a match day for Boca Juniors, you'll see the team's blue and yellow colours adorning the city. The area around the stadium in La Boca is an ideal place to soak up the atmosphere as thousands of fans arrive from all over the city. Just remember to leave any other team's shirt safely locked in your apartment.
Palermo Hollywood is one of the many great neighbourhoods in the city to consider when planning your stay. The large tree canopies and cobbled streets are characteristic of many of the surrounding areas. The streets are generally peaceful during the day, with restaurants and bars filling up as the evening goes on.
The downtown area of Buenos Aires, known as the microcentro, was significantly more similar to what you might expect from an equivalent in Europe compared to any of the other cities I had visited on the continent. It was infinitely safer than what you might find in Colombia and much more modern than in Santiago.

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