Buenos Aires
Worthy of the hype? Yes.
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Founded in the 16th century, Buenos Aires is shaped by Spanish colonial foundations, Italian urban planning, and French architectural styles, intertwined with its Latin American heritage.
A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.
A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.
A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.
A highlight of this South American trip. An ideal place for a month-long stay, just don't expect it to be cheap.
Buenos Aires felt like one of the most hyped-up remote work destinations I'd read about. It's easy to see why. Heralded as a destination with European-esque infrastructure and safety but paired with South American prices, it's an obvious draw for people escaping the Northern Hemisphere's winter.
Yet, 12 months into President Milei's drastic but controversial attempts at economic reform, do those claims still hold true? Two weeks was just long enough to get a feel for the current climate in the city.
Even amidst such economic upheaval, accommodation on Airbnb remains surprisingly good value. The city has a huge supply of apartment buildings, and you should be able to find a quality one-bedroom apartment for under £800 a month in an area of your choosing. That price can drop even further if you're willing to stay a little further out of Palermo or Recoleta.
I stayed in an Airbnb in the QUO Swim complex in Palermo Hollywood, which was well managed with a small on-site gym and pool. At current rates, prices are lower than what you'd find in practically any other major city, even within South-East Asia. Expect prices to rise during the peak summer months of January and February, so aim to travel outside those periods to get the most value.
Compared to other cities in Latin America, air conditioning is commonplace in Buenos Aires and essential during the summer. Unlike neighbouring Santiago, where temperatures drop dramatically in the evenings, even in November it was necessary.
Unsurprisingly, given its reputation as a remote work hub, Buenos Aires offers no shortage of coworking spaces, with Palermo hosting the highest concentration. The city also boasts a vast number of speciality coffee shops, many featuring dedicated working areas that stay open into the early evening on weekdays, providing excellent alternatives.
WeWork operates four locations in the city, all easily accessible via public transport from Palermo. The site on Av. Corrientes stands out as particularly impressive, which I’ve covered in more detail later. Additionally, Santander’s Work Cafe locations serve as a convenient, free option which would suit occasional use.
As of November 2024, Buenos Aires is on the more expensive end of what you might find across South America. If you were to analyse a month's expenses, dining out is the area where you will see a significant increase in spending compared to other cities. A combination of high food costs, coupled with a lack of lower-end restaurants in popular areas such as Palermo or Recoleta, means you'll struggle to find an evening meal for less than £12.
If you look a bit harder outside the immediate centres of Palermo and in less touristy but central areas such as Balvanera, you’ll find more traditional restaurants offering meals at lower prices. However, they may be less appealing than what you’d find in Lima or Bogotá.
I’d suggest budgeting as you would in a European city and being pleasantly surprised by what you have left, as certain elements remain significantly cheaper. Accommodation, coffee shops, transport, wine from the supermarket, and alcohol in bars all come in at varying degrees cheaper than what you'd pay in the UK.
Other items felt as if they carried a heavy premium, namely chocolate, electrical goods, unground coffee beans, and imported beer like Corona.
At present, Buenos Aires is not a destination to prioritise if cost is your primary concern. However, if you’re accustomed to European prices or higher, it shouldn't deter you. When comparing with other Latin American cities, it felt very much on a par with Santiago, yet with a lot greater choice of dining options.
Assuming you love big cities, you won't get bored in Buenos Aires. The city is renowned for its energetic nightlife, with the best of the action not starting until well after midnight. If you're an early riser on the weekends, expect to see revellers continuing the party and showing no signs of weakness well into the following morning.
If, like this mid-30s writer, your hedonistic days are numbered, there is more to the city than heading to a club at 2AM.
There is a huge number of cultural attractions in the form of galleries and museums, and more than enough restaurants to explore over several months. Simply walking around its labyrinth of streets and green open spaces is satisfying in itself, with consistently high footfall throughout the city.
Argentina operates on Argentina Standard Time (ART), which is consistently GMT-3 throughout the year. Unlike some other South American countries that shift their time zones seasonally, Argentina maintains a stable time zone.
Compared to Peru or Colombia, this makes it significantly easier to maintain a similar working day to colleagues in Europe, requiring no major changes to your daily schedule. For North Americans, this puts you marginally ahead of Eastern Standard Time and in a good place to maintain any work schedules with little adjustment.
One thing to consider is that if there is one country in the world where you don't want to be going to bed early, it's Argentina. With dinners routinely starting around 10 PM and the nightlife continuing until the daylight hours, you may struggle to maintain a schedule aligned with European hours if attempting to burn the candle at both ends.
I can't recall many cities having such a large number of livable and attractive neighbourhoods as Buenos Aires. Unlike other cities in South America, where only small fractions of the city are viable choices due to safety concerns or a lack of amenities, you have an overwhelming number of options at your disposal.
Most guidance I came across prior suggested staying somewhere in the large expanse that is Palermo, and from what I experienced, that would be sound advice for most people.
With so many choices on Airbnb, my advice would be to plan where you intend to work from and find the best apartment you can within your desired commute. Unlike other cities, no one location felt like it was the overwhelmingly obvious choice.
Situated just to the east of Plaza de la República, WeWork occupies the entirety of this 38-floor commercial building in the heart of the downtown area.
The main All Access area is based on the 38th floor, offering some of the best views across the city looking out onto the Río de la Plata and far into the distance. Within the top three views from any WeWork I've visited. On the 20th floor, there is a second communal area with the main community bar and a café serving reasonable coffee, sandwiches, and cakes.
The area around the building is ideal to explore during the daytime, with plenty of options for a quick bite to eat for breakfast or lunch.
Magic Coffee - Closest speciality coffee shop, had a great Peruvian bean on during my visit. Super friendly staff.
Empanadas KRYSS - Some of the tastiest and most generously filled Carne Picante empanadas I found, perfect quick breakfast option.
Food Time - If you are searching for a quick lunch, this pay-by-weight buffet is a popular option with local office workers, with an enormous variety of salads, meats, Argentine dishes, and a few local Chinese ones thrown in. Get there before 12:00 before the queues start.
I commuted from Palermo Hollywood and enjoyed the process of heading into the CBD daily. It's around a 25-minute ride on the underground, which was quiet and pleasant pre-7AM. If I was to return, I'd aim to be within a 45 minute walking distance. Worth considering getting a WeWork pass specifically for this site.
Vicente Lopez - A huge site with plenty of seating options but, unless staying immediately in the area, too far out. Not as much of a buzz compared to the sites in the city. Great roof terrace for during the summer months.
Ing. Enrique Butty - A ten-minute walk away from Corrientes in the CBD, much smaller and with less dedicated seating. Would not prioritise.
Argentina introduced a digital nomad visa in May 2022, offering remote workers an attractive opportunity to legally stay in the country for up to 12 months. The visa is designed for professionals from countries with visa-free tourist entry to Argentina, targeting those with income sources outside the country. Applicants must demonstrate a monthly income of around £750-£2,000 and provide a clean criminal record.
The visa allows a 180-day initial stay, renewable for another 180 days, and costs approximately £160. It provides multiple entry privileges, enabling digital nomads to explore Argentina and surrounding countries. The Argentine government sweetens the deal with a welcome package at Buenos Aires airport, including discounts on airport transfers, first-night hotel stays, a complimentary SIM card, and a public transport card.
To apply, individuals must submit a comprehensive CV, detailed employment documentation, and verify their income sources. The visa offers a structured, legal alternative to overstaying, making it an appealing option for remote workers seeking to experience Argentina's vibrant culture and lifestyle while maintaining their professional commitments.
After spending any amount of time in Buenos Aires, it will become apparent that this is a city that loves its football. I was lucky to have a colleague who was able to get some for a reasonable price, but tickets can be hard to come by and can reach several hundreds of dollars.
The La Bombonera stadium is in the heart of the Boca neighbourhood and has an electric atmosphere on match days. Even if you can't get your hands on a ticket, it's a great area to explore on foot. Pick up a traditional choripán (Chori) from one of the many street-side asados and wash it down with an XL fernet and coke.
If you can make it inside the stadium, expect relentlessly energetic music and chanting for 90 minutes, which, with Boca's recent form, may not be matched on the pitch.
November felt like an ideal time to visit the city. Most days featured relentless sunshine, with the remainder a mix of heavy clouds and occasional storms. With daytime temperatures consistently in the late 20s, no more was needed than a shirt and T-shirt each day.
The peak summer season, during January and February, brings a marked increase in temperatures and visitor numbers, with many locals leaving for their own vacations. I didn't hear too many people excited about the intensity of the mid-summer heat.
Two weeks really felt like the bare minimum you would need in the city if spending the majority of your time working during the week. I’d have no hesitation recommending booking for a month, especially with the cost of accommodation being particularly favourable for longer stays.
Buenos Aires felt comfortably the most cosmopolitan and international of the cities I had visited on the continent. I was anticipating a much higher number of remote workers given the attention the city has received, but on the ground, it didn’t feel too perceptible, aside from the occasional North American accent around Palermo and in the WeWork.
If you’re looking to meet others in a similar situation, it remains one of the best options I can recall globally, with numerous networks and events aimed at remote workers. The city draws in a number of expats from neighbouring countries, with Brazilians, Colombians, and Venezuelans all well represented.