Santiago
Underwhelming food, incredible scenery.
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Founded in 1541 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia, Santiago has evolved from a colonial outpost into one of South America’s leading cities.
As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.
As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.
As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.
As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.
Santiago was one of the first cities on my list when drawing up a plan for South America, for no other reason than wanting to see the incredible skyline of the Andes, which is visible from the city.
It made sense as the next step down from Lima for a two-week stay.
Considering the cost of living is generally higher than other cities in South America, high quality, modern apartments still represent good value in Santiago with the price for a one bed apartment similar if not lower to what you may expect to pay in say Bogotá or Lima.
For under £900 on Airbnb, you should be able to find a decent one-bedroom apartment. The prices for accommodation appear to drop the further west you venture towards Estación Central, but your attention will likely be drawn to the opposite side of the city, making any savings on cost unwise.
I stayed at the Concepto Best Site - Imagina apartment block, which was clean and well-managed, but I'd advise against the location in the Centro Histórico, which I'll expand on further.
Even though temperatures can reach 30 degrees during summer, air conditioning is not commonplace in residential units, which you may want to take into consideration if intending on working from home.
There are a reasonable number of coworking options across Santiago, with most of the quality options concentrated close to the Tobalaba station in Providencia.
WeWork has only one remaining site in the city, immediately outside Manquehue metro station, which makes it a fair distance from the city centre and a commute you'd be best avoiding.
If you're only passing through Santiago for a few nights and don't want to sign up to anywhere, you may want to consider using the Santander 'Work Cafés'. These bank branches have dedicated coworking spaces installed and offer facilities comparable to dedicated commercial venues. I visited several throughout the city and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the interiors. I'd suggest trying one outside the Centro Histórico, where you can expect to find a more professional and less 'ambient' working environment. They are generally open from 09:00 - 17:00, closing earlier on Fridays.
Speciality coffee shops aren't as abundant in Santiago as you may find elsewhere - Starbucks have a heavy presence across the city and can make for a viable short term option with most open until 20:00.
Chile is one of the more expensive countries within South America, and the cost of living in Santiago is, unsurprisingly, the highest in the country. Where I really found a difference between other cities on the continent was in the cost of eating out. Whilst in Lima, Medellín and Bogotá, there were numerous options around the £5-6 mark for a casual, informal local lunch or dinner, there were markedly fewer options in Santiago.
The Chinese restaurants, which can be found all across the city and are particularly abundant in the Centro Histórico, fill out the bottom end of the market but generally bear no resemblance to what you would traditionally expect from the cuisine and aren't appealing prospects for daily dining.
The prices of groceries, especially imported items, again felt particularly steep, and the cost of goods from international brands such as Starbucks and McDonald's felt like they matched or often exceeded what you would expect in parts of Europe. Given salaries are, on average, significantly lower than those in much of Europe, many of these inflated costs didn't quite stack up.
On the contrary, domestically produced wine was exceptionally good value, the metro costs under 60p a ride, and Ubers are generally inexpensive for travel across the city.
If you are just visiting for a couple of nights on holiday, then this should not deter you. Santiago will almost certainly be better value than where you are coming from. But if you are planning a longer trip and intending to eating out regularly, it feels noticeably worse value than other cities in the region.
Where you opt to stay in Santiago will dramatically affect your perception of the city. The downtown area is unquestionably the liveliest part, but after spending two weeks there, it's hard to imagine anyone travelling halfway around the world for what it offers.
The upscale residential areas of Las Condes and Vitacura, while clean, safe and modern, lack any distinctive character or Chilean identity and, depending on where you stay, could feasibly make you reliant on a car or Uber.
When compared to its neighbour, I found that Lima's Miraflores and Barranco districts together offered the right balance between modern amenities and local culture. Despite exploring Santiago extensively, I couldn't find a comparable area that would draw me in for a longer stay.
Chile operates on Chile Standard Time (CLT), which is GMT-3 during the summer months, and shifts briefly to GMT-4 in the southern hemisphere's winter months. Compared to Peru or Colombia, this made it significantly easier to maintain a similar working day to colleagues in Europe, requiring no major changes to your daily schedule.
For North Americans, this puts you marginally ahead of Eastern Standard Time and in a good place to maintain any work schedules with little adjustment.
The size of Santiago can be deceptive at first glance of a map.
The city's more upmarket and desirable neighbourhoods lie north-east of the traditional downtown area, and due its size, you should think carefully about where you plan to work from.
The main All Access space is on the 22nd floor where there is a large quiet area for focused work, several phone booths, and two large outdoor patios with soft furnishings under the shade. Being so high gives you incredible views with the Andes peering into the distance further East and the core of the city further down to the West.
The main reason I would suggest not working from there is a catastrophically bad offering of food and drink in the immediate area. Whilst there is a cafe on the 22nd floor, it serves an unappealing range of microwaveable burgers, small cakes and Starbucks coffee. There are some more offerings further back towards the commercial buildings near Rosario Norte, but they are too far to be frequently walked during the working day.
The best option I could find in the area was a small outlet called Badajoz 72, around a 5 minute walk from the building. You can get a number of mains, drink and dessert for 7,000 pesos. The food is nothing outstanding but the staff and friendly and the food is served rapidly.
One of the things I enjoy most about working from a new country is spending the working week exploring local food and discovering new coffee shops. This was the first time I can recall where this simply wasn’t an option.
Also importantly, if you are staying closer to the Centro Histórico, the metro journey to Manquehue can be incredibly unpleasant at peak hours. With all things considered, unless you are staying in close proximity or already have WeWork access, I would strongly suggest looking elsewhere.
Cerro San Cristóbal is a landmark hill in Santiago, rising 300 metres above the city. It’s located within Parque Metropolitano, the largest urban park in Chile, and offers panoramic views of Santiago and the Andes. Its summit is home to a 22-metre statue of the Virgin Mary, alongside a chapel, an amphitheatre, and a number of outlets for food and drink.
Whilst you can get to the top via a cable car, it’s not a demanding hike, and even if you are not particularly athletic, you should be able to get up there in an hour. If you’re only in town for a couple of days, I’d put it at the top of your list.
The weather during November was near perfect. Early mornings were cold and crisp, with daytime temperatures reaching 30°C by late afternoon. Similar dry conditions can be found from September through February - ideal months for exploring outdoors. Unless you are specifically after snow, you'd be best visiting in this window.
In terms of duration I couldn't recommend two weeks in Santiago. Three nights should suffice to experience the city's highlights, leaving more time to explore the wider country, which is something I regret not being able to do on this visit. When considering global cities for a month-long stay, Santiago would rank low on my list.
Aside from frequently hearing foreign accents in the steets of Lastarria, it was rare to encounter many foreigners throughout much of the city or in the WeWork.
I saw little evidence of a prominent remote-work culture in Santiago, yet it still retains an international feel, acting as a key employment hub on the continent, with a particularly noticeably Venezuelan community in the city.