Chile
Nov 2024
2 weeks

Santiago

Underwhelming food, incredible scenery.

[Local Time}
{Temperature}
°C ·
[Description}

The economic and cultural centre of Chile.

Founded in 1541 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia, Santiago has evolved from a colonial outpost into one of South America’s leading cities.

Verdict:
Consider for a holiday

As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.

🌎
Verdict:
Consider for a holiday

As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.

Verdict:
Consider for a holiday

As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.

👎
Verdict:
Consider for a holiday

As a city to base yourself for remote work, it fell short for me in several key areas. It's worth stopping by for a few nights as a base to explore the rest of Chile, or if you're already in the region.

🛫
Chilean Peso (CLP)
6.9 million
🏝️ Great for a holiday

Summary

Santiago was one of the first cities on my list when drawing up a plan for South America, for no other reason than wanting to see the incredible skyline of the Andes, which is visible from the city.

It made sense as the next step down from Lima for a two-week stay.

Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
85
%

Considering the cost of living is generally higher than other cities in South America, high quality, modern apartments still represent good value in Santiago with the price for a one bed apartment similar if not lower to what you may expect to pay in say Bogotá or Lima.

For under £900 on Airbnb, you should be able to find a decent one-bedroom apartment. The prices for accommodation appear to drop the further west you venture towards Estación Central, but your attention will likely be drawn to the opposite side of the city, making any savings on cost unwise.

I stayed at the Concepto Best Site - Imagina apartment block, which was clean and well-managed, but I'd advise against the location in the Centro Histórico, which I'll expand on further.

Even though temperatures can reach 30 degrees during summer, air conditioning is not commonplace in residential units, which you may want to take into consideration if intending on working from home.

info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.
Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
75
%

There are a reasonable number of coworking options across Santiago, with most of the quality options concentrated close to the Tobalaba station in Providencia.

WeWork has only one remaining site in the city, immediately outside Manquehue metro station, which makes it a fair distance from the city centre and a commute you'd be best avoiding.

If you're only passing through Santiago for a few nights and don't want to sign up to anywhere, you may want to consider using the Santander 'Work Cafés'. These bank branches have dedicated coworking spaces installed and offer facilities comparable to dedicated commercial venues. I visited several throughout the city and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the interiors. I'd suggest trying one outside the Centro Histórico, where you can expect to find a more professional and less 'ambient' working environment. They are generally open from 09:00 - 17:00, closing earlier on Fridays.

Speciality coffee shops aren't as abundant in Santiago as you may find elsewhere - Starbucks have a heavy presence across the city and can make for a viable short term option with most open until 20:00.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
74
%

Chile is one of the more expensive countries within South America, and the cost of living in Santiago is, unsurprisingly, the highest in the country. Where I really found a difference between other cities on the continent was in the cost of eating out. Whilst in Lima, Medellín and Bogotá, there were numerous options around the £5-6 mark for a casual, informal local lunch or dinner, there were markedly fewer options in Santiago.

The Chinese restaurants, which can be found all across the city and are particularly abundant in the Centro Histórico, fill out the bottom end of the market but generally bear no resemblance to what you would traditionally expect from the cuisine and aren't appealing prospects for daily dining.

The prices of groceries, especially imported items, again felt particularly steep, and the cost of goods from international brands such as Starbucks and McDonald's felt like they matched or often exceeded what you would expect in parts of Europe. Given salaries are, on average, significantly lower than those in much of Europe, many of these inflated costs didn't quite stack up.

On the contrary, domestically produced wine was exceptionally good value, the metro costs under 60p a ride, and Ubers are generally inexpensive for travel across the city.

If you are just visiting for a couple of nights on holiday, then this should not deter you. Santiago will almost certainly be better value than where you are coming from. But if you are planning a longer trip and intending to eating out regularly, it feels noticeably worse value than other cities in the region.

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The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
64
%

Where you opt to stay in Santiago will dramatically affect your perception of the city. The downtown area is unquestionably the liveliest part, but after spending two weeks there, it's hard to imagine anyone travelling halfway around the world for what it offers.

The upscale residential areas of Las Condes and Vitacura, while clean, safe and modern, lack any distinctive character or Chilean identity and, depending on where you stay, could feasibly make you reliant on a car or Uber.

When compared to its neighbour, I found that Lima's Miraflores and Barranco districts together offered the right balance between modern amenities and local culture. Despite exploring Santiago extensively, I couldn't find a comparable area that would draw me in for a longer stay.

Working hours

Chile operates on Chile Standard Time (CLT), which is GMT-3 during the summer months, and shifts briefly to GMT-4 in the southern hemisphere's winter months. Compared to Peru or Colombia, this made it significantly easier to maintain a similar working day to colleagues in Europe, requiring no major changes to your daily schedule.

For North Americans, this puts you marginally ahead of Eastern Standard Time and in a good place to maintain any work schedules with little adjustment.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Arguably the best thing about Santiago is how easy it is to access great hiking trails. Within a 20-minute Uber ride, you can be at the start of a variety of trails with something suitable for all abilities. The landscape is a mix of mountains and semi-arid deserts, with cacti vastly outnumbering any trees. A huge benefit to have on your doorstep.
Arguably the best thing about Santiago is how easy it is to access great hiking trails. Within a 20-minute Uber ride, you can be at the start of a variety of trails with something suitable for all abilities. The landscape is a mix of mountains and semi-arid deserts, with cacti vastly outnumbering any trees. A huge benefit to have on your doorstep.
Whilst the metro is undoubtedly a huge asset to Santiago, it is prone to severe overcrowding during peak hours. If you are attempting to board a Línea 1 train between 07:00 and 09:00, you can easily watch seven trains pass with only sufficient space for a single passenger to board or disembark each time. It is easily the most uncomfortable commute I've experienced.
Whilst the metro is undoubtedly a huge asset to Santiago, it is prone to severe overcrowding during peak hours. If you are attempting to board a Línea 1 train between 07:00 and 09:00, you can easily watch seven trains pass with only sufficient space for a single passenger to board or disembark each time. It is easily the most uncomfortable commute I've experienced.
The path leading up to Cerro San Cristóbal is easily accessible from Bellavista. With hundreds of people ascending and descending during peak weekend hours, there's nothing to worry about in terms of safety along its main paths.
The path leading up to Cerro San Cristóbal is easily accessible from Bellavista. With hundreds of people ascending and descending during peak weekend hours, there's nothing to worry about in terms of safety along its main paths.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

The size of Santiago can be deceptive at first glance of a map.

The city's more upmarket and desirable neighbourhoods lie north-east of the traditional downtown area, and due its size, you should think carefully about where you plan to work from.

Would avoid
Recommended
Centro Histórico
Where I regrettably stayed most recently. Worth visiting during the week when it's a bustling commercial hub, but during weekends, large swathes of it feel like an abandoned ghost town. There's a notable lack of modern dining options, with the culinary scene mainly comprised of highly localised interpretations of Chinese food. The area north of Plaza de Armas can feel particularly unsavoury, and it's unlikely this is an area any visitor would want to call home for an extended period.
Would avoid
Recommended
Lastarria
An ideal option if in town for a couple of days and wanting to be nearer the Centro Histórico. Lastarria is nestled immediately to the east and has a much more refined selection of options for eating and dining. Expect to hear lots of North American accents. Not somewhere I would opt for in the long term due to how tourist orientated it felt.
Would avoid
Recommended
Bellavista
A small hub just north of the Centro Histórico with a range of galleries, restaurants and options for nightlife. It felt fine walking on foot during the day but is reportedly unsafe at night. Probably worth avoiding on your first visit to the city but enjoyable to visit during the day.
Would avoid
Recommended
Providencia
What felt like the best bet for a prolonged stay. A much more contemporary feeling area of the city, with plenty of speciality coffee shops and higher-end bars and dining options. I'd aim to be close to Avenida Providencia between Manuel Montt and Tobalaba metro stations to give convenient access to the Línea 1 metro line.
Would avoid
Recommended
Las Condes / Vitacura
These huge neighbourhoods are considered some of the safest residential districts within Santiago. Whilst they may make sense as permanent places to live, they felt too disconnected from the core of the city for a short stay. Assuming you won't have a car, unless you're staying close to one of the metro stations on Av. Apoquindo, you'll likely be highly reliant on Ubers to get about.

Where to work

WeWork - Av. Apoquindo
Top Choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top Location
🥗 On Site Cafe
🧍Community Focused
⭐️ Quality Fit Out
🌳 Outdoor Space

WeWork occupies 20 out of the 22 floors in this large commercial building in Las Condes.

The main All Access space is on the 22nd floor where there is a large quiet area for focused work, several phone booths, and two large outdoor patios with soft furnishings under the shade. Being so high gives you incredible views with the Andes peering into the distance further East and the core of the city further down to the West.

The main reason I would suggest not working from there is a catastrophically bad offering of food and drink in the immediate area. Whilst there is a cafe on the 22nd floor, it serves an unappealing range of microwaveable burgers, small cakes and Starbucks coffee. There are some more offerings further back towards the commercial buildings near Rosario Norte, but they are too far to be frequently walked during the working day.

The best option I could find in the area was a small outlet called Badajoz 72, around a 5 minute walk from the building. You can get a number of mains, drink and dessert for 7,000 pesos. The food is nothing outstanding but the staff and friendly and the food is served rapidly.

One of the things I enjoy most about working from a new country is spending the working week exploring local food and discovering new coffee shops. This was the first time I can recall where this simply wasn’t an option.

Also importantly, if you are staying closer to the Centro Histórico, the metro journey to Manquehue can be incredibly unpleasant at peak hours. With all things considered, unless you are staying in close proximity or already have WeWork access, I would strongly suggest looking elsewhere.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for this country.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.
Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
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To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of December 2024. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it!

Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • I walked extensively around much of Santiago and found little cause for concern.Compared to my previous South American destinations, Santiago proved comfortably the easiest city for exploring on foot. With late sunsets (20:00 in November), you have plenty of daylight hours for exploration.
  • The Centro Histórico, while rough in patches, feels surprisingly secure.During weekdays, the large working population keeps the area bustling until late into the evening. Weekends bring quieter streets which feel more eerie than threatening. I'd avoid walking through Mercado Central and the surrounding streets after dusk, as it took on a notably seedier feeling in the late evenings. The lower half of the area closer to the Estacion Universidad de Chile station is in general a lot better. It's a much more viable option than either of the La Candelaria areas in Medellín or Bogotá.
  • Bellavista has a reputation for night time safety issues.If visiting for nightlife, use Uber for travel to and from the area. There didn't feel anything to be concerned about during the daytime.
  • The Metro runs efficiently and securely.The seemingly never ending flow of passengers on main lines and security guards on the platforms means there's always a healthy presence of people across the system.
  • Cerro San Cristóbal is super popular on weekends.Join the crowds of locals walking up if you are hesitant about going up their alone. Again, a much safer option than the equivalent city hikes in Colombia.
  • Caution should be taken if visiting Valparaíso.The coastal city is a popular day trip from Santiago but in recent years has had a reputation for being less secure with several dangerous areas. I didn't make it on this occasion but the security situation sounded worse than what you may find in the centre of Santiago.

Off work

Climb Cerro San Cristóbal

Cerro San Cristóbal is a landmark hill in Santiago, rising 300 metres above the city. It’s located within Parque Metropolitano, the largest urban park in Chile, and offers panoramic views of Santiago and the Andes. Its summit is home to a 22-metre statue of the Virgin Mary, alongside a chapel, an amphitheatre, and a number of outlets for food and drink.

Whilst you can get to the top via a cable car, it’s not a demanding hike, and even if you are not particularly athletic, you should be able to get up there in an hour. If you’re only in town for a couple of days, I’d put it at the top of your list.

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Duration & season

The weather during November was near perfect. Early mornings were cold and crisp, with daytime temperatures reaching 30°C by late afternoon. Similar dry conditions can be found from September through February - ideal months for exploring outdoors. Unless you are specifically after snow, you'd be best visiting in this window.

In terms of duration I couldn't recommend two weeks in Santiago. Three nights should suffice to experience the city's highlights, leaving more time to explore the wider country, which is something I regret not being able to do on this visit. When considering global cities for a month-long stay, Santiago would rank low on my list.

Food & drink

Cerro Manquehue
·
Walk
Take an Uber to the trailhead on Vía Roja, where you can take a path leading you up to Manquehue or the shorter Manquehuito slightly to the east. It's a steep climb to the summit along a path with numerous loose stones, offering panoramic views across the city below. Instead of returning to the trailhead, you can traverse over the top to finish in Los Trapenses, though this involves a considerable return journey to the city. No entrance ticket required.
Parque Natural Aguas de Ramón
·
Walk
It's worth taking an Uber to the entrance of this natural park, around a 30-minute drive from the Centro Histórico. There are a variety of well-marked trails traversing a stream running through the foothills of the Andes, with the trail concluding at some waterfalls. Plan for 5 hours up and down. Book a ticket in advance (3,500 pesos) from the website to avoid queuing on arrival. You will be asked for your ID number but you do not need to bring the physical document with you.
Santa Lucía Hill + Parque Metropolitano de Santiago
·
Walk
If you're out for a day of exploring, it's worth combining these two sites. I'd suggest visiting at the weekend when you'll be joined by hundreds of others heading up San Cristóbal Hill, which is part of the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago. If you fancy a hike, you can carry on further, with plenty of walking and cycling trails eventually looping back to Vitacura. No ticket required.
Parque Quinta Normal
·
Run
An easy run if staying in the Centro Histórico, this park is home to the National Museum of Natural History, which, if running on a hot day, can make for a cool, air-conditioned interval. Entry to the museum is free, and whilst most of the content is in Spanish, it provides a great background to the country. Its grounds are ideal for running without interruption from traffic.
WeWork -> Barrio Lastarria
·
Walk
It's a pleasant post-work downhill walk from the WeWork in Las Condes if you are returning to the historical centre or surrounding neighbourhoods. There are plenty of spots to stop for a coffee or snack. It passes through very safe areas and offers a much fresher alternative to taking the metro.

People

Aside from frequently hearing foreign accents in the steets of Lastarria, it was rare to encounter many foreigners throughout much of the city or in the WeWork.

I saw little evidence of a prominent remote-work culture in Santiago, yet it still retains an international feel, acting as a key employment hub on the continent, with a particularly noticeably Venezuelan community in the city.

Exercise

Cerro Manquehue
Take an Uber to the trailhead on Vía Roja, where you can take a path leading you up to Manquehue or the shorter Manquehuito slightly to the east. It's a steep climb to the summit along a path with numerous loose stones, offering panoramic views across the city below. Instead of returning to the trailhead, you can traverse over the top to finish in Los Trapenses, though this involves a considerable return journey to the city. No entrance ticket required.
keyboard_arrow_down
Parque Natural Aguas de Ramón
It's worth taking an Uber to the entrance of this natural park, around a 30-minute drive from the Centro Histórico. There are a variety of well-marked trails traversing a stream running through the foothills of the Andes, with the trail concluding at some waterfalls. Plan for 5 hours up and down. Book a ticket in advance (3,500 pesos) from the website to avoid queuing on arrival. You will be asked for your ID number but you do not need to bring the physical document with you.
keyboard_arrow_down
Santa Lucía Hill + Parque Metropolitano de Santiago
If you're out for a day of exploring, it's worth combining these two sites. I'd suggest visiting at the weekend when you'll be joined by hundreds of others heading up San Cristóbal Hill, which is part of the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago. If you fancy a hike, you can carry on further, with plenty of walking and cycling trails eventually looping back to Vitacura. No ticket required.
keyboard_arrow_down
Parque Quinta Normal
An easy run if staying in the Centro Histórico, this park is home to the National Museum of Natural History, which, if running on a hot day, can make for a cool, air-conditioned interval. Entry to the museum is free, and whilst most of the content is in Spanish, it provides a great background to the country. Its grounds are ideal for running without interruption from traffic.
keyboard_arrow_down
WeWork -> Barrio Lastarria
It's a pleasant post-work downhill walk from the WeWork in Las Condes if you are returning to the historical centre or surrounding neighbourhoods. There are plenty of spots to stop for a coffee or snack. It passes through very safe areas and offers a much fresher alternative to taking the metro.
keyboard_arrow_down
Cerro Manquehue
Take an Uber to the trailhead on Vía Roja, where you can take a path leading you up to Manquehue or the shorter Manquehuito slightly to the east. It's a steep climb to the summit along a path with numerous loose stones, offering panoramic views across the city below. Instead of returning to the trailhead, you can traverse over the top to finish in Los Trapenses, though this involves a considerable return journey to the city. No entrance ticket required.
Parque Natural Aguas de Ramón
It's worth taking an Uber to the entrance of this natural park, around a 30-minute drive from the Centro Histórico. There are a variety of well-marked trails traversing a stream running through the foothills of the Andes, with the trail concluding at some waterfalls. Plan for 5 hours up and down. Book a ticket in advance (3,500 pesos) from the website to avoid queuing on arrival. You will be asked for your ID number but you do not need to bring the physical document with you.
Santa Lucía Hill + Parque Metropolitano de Santiago
If you're out for a day of exploring, it's worth combining these two sites. I'd suggest visiting at the weekend when you'll be joined by hundreds of others heading up San Cristóbal Hill, which is part of the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago. If you fancy a hike, you can carry on further, with plenty of walking and cycling trails eventually looping back to Vitacura. No ticket required.
Parque Quinta Normal
An easy run if staying in the Centro Histórico, this park is home to the National Museum of Natural History, which, if running on a hot day, can make for a cool, air-conditioned interval. Entry to the museum is free, and whilst most of the content is in Spanish, it provides a great background to the country. Its grounds are ideal for running without interruption from traffic.
WeWork -> Barrio Lastarria
It's a pleasant post-work downhill walk from the WeWork in Las Condes if you are returning to the historical centre or surrounding neighbourhoods. There are plenty of spots to stop for a coffee or snack. It passes through very safe areas and offers a much fresher alternative to taking the metro.

Verdict

Positives
  • The Andes provide a spectacular backdrop to the city.The mountain peaks are often masked by a heavy haze of smog and mist throughout the day, but their sporadic appearance makes for a captivating view which looks as impressive as the photos.
  • Incredibly convenient access to hiking.Perhaps one of the most compelling reasons to visit Santiago is to immerse yourself in some of the spectacular nature that can be found on its doorstep. From an hour-long hike up Cerro San Cristóbal to potential multi-day expeditions into the Andes, you don't have to plan too hard to find some great routes.
  • A strong wine culture.Wine fans will be in for a treat in Santiago, with great-quality domestic wine freely available in bars and restaurants across the city. Expect to pay around 5,000 pesos for a glass (£4) in a nice establishment, with bottles costing less from a supermarket. Look out for some rarer locally grown varieties such as Carménère and Carignan making an appearance on menus.
  • Some of the best infrastructure in the region.The city's expansive metro lines make it easy to navigate what can be a large urban expanse, with trains running up to every two minutes during peak hours. These are complemented by a series of concealed subterranean tunnels which carry a lot of the city's road traffic, making east-west travel easier than it would otherwise be.
  • Ideal weather.The weather was close to perfect throughout the duration of my stay in November, a typically dry period with warm days and characteristically clear blue skies, giving way to cool night-time breezes.
  • High levels of safety by Latin American standards.Whilst my two-week experience can't serve as a universal truth, Santiago felt significantly safer than both Medellín and Bogotá. Although there are areas you would want to avoid in the city, you can roam the neighbourhoods of Providencia, Las Condes, and Vitacura with a level of freedom similar to that in Europe.Like in any major city, keep an eye on your phone and follow standard safety protocols.
Negatives
  • One of the most disappointing cities for food I can recall visiting.Finding a tasty, quick, and inexpensive meal in Santiago was laborious. Chile is not a country renowned for its food, and both Peruvian and Chinese restaurants far outweighed any domestically focused outlets. Whilst the Peruvian places felt of similar quality to what you might find in Lima (if not twice the price), the Chinese restaurants were sorely lacking. There are, of course, great quality higher-end options for both local and international cuisine. But as I reflect on the two weeks, I can't recall having spent so long in a destination and failing to make any sort of connection with the food. Local staples like empanadas appeared anaemic and undercooked, while pastries and other baked goods were generally of low quality by international standards. Street food is practically non-existent, aside from a few men hauling charred meat of unknown origin on makeshift BBQs and offering some rather unappealing sandwiches.
  • The metro makes for an unpleasant morning commute.At the risk of sounding over-dramatic, I can't recall a metro system where I ever felt so confident I could catch an illness from just momentarily setting foot in a carriage. Even at an early hour, the trains are frequently close to full capacity. Most journeys see passengers continuously jostling for space, accompanied by a soundtrack of ill-sounding coughs and music blasting from phones. Your morning commute would be best planned by avoiding it if at all possible.
  • The cities layout failed to inspire.Structurally, I found the layout of the city underwhelming. Assuming you'll avoid the historical centre, many activity hubs are located next to arterial roads rather than being hubs in themselves. The metro has good coverage but fails to extend deep into both Vitacura and Las Condes which can make accessing parts of these more troublesome than you would expect.
  • Many items felt like bad value for money.Whilst higher costs are to be expected in Chile, some items felt disproportionately high. In Starbucks a double espresso can cost 4,800 pesos (nearly £4). A simple meal in an unassuming, rustic, humble restaurant in the historical centre can cost up to 13,000 pesos (£10). Whilst these may not seem extreme in isolation, considering the median income in the country is dramatically lower than the say UK, it doesn't quite add up. If you are planning on eating out for most meals, it adds up over a sustained period.
  • Extortionate ATM fees.I couldn't find anywhere which would charge less than £9 to withdraw cash from an ATM, so went the duration of the trip without doing so. Having said that, given the near-universal acceptance of card payments and few items of interest available from the street, you can easily go without.
Tips
  • Pick up a Bip! card to use public transport across the city.The cards can be bought and reloaded at any metro station. I had issues using Apple Pay to purchase the card, so I suggest bringing a physical card to use in the station terminals when initially purchasing or topping up. Not all stations appear to have machines which dispensed cards but I had success at the Plaza de Armas L3 station.
  • An Airalo eSIM was good value.A 20GB data and voice plan cost $23 USD which, whilst more expensive than local offerings, saved time navigating the seemingly enormous queues in Movistar outlets.
  • Ubers are available from the second floor in the airport.They don't appear to be able to pick up from the airport, but I had no problems getting one from the arrivals area, with a journey to the downtown area costing 16,000 CLP (£13). You may see out-of-date information online that the service is illegal in the country; however, in recent years it has become fully legalised and works flawlessly.
  • Bring some warm clothes for the evenings even in summer.Even on days when the temperatures reach up to 30°C, it can drop dramatically during the evenings and early mornings.
  • Sundays are a great time to explore the city by bike or on foot.Like other South American cities, large portions of the city's roads are closed for the Ciclovía. The area around the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is particularly popular with people making the most of the freedom.
  • Tipping felt less transparent.Chile shares a similar tipping culture to Colombia via the addition of a voluntary propina (10%). However, while in Bogotá there was an explicit ask of it on each transaction, in Santiago there were occasions where an effort was made to conceal the request. I couldn't quite work out if this was a general cultural trend or perhaps an attempt to take advantage of a foreigner's naivety, but there was a noticeably different dynamic.
The historical centre bustles throughout much of the week, with street traders lining many of its main streets and selling an assortment of both used and new goods. Plaza de Armas acts as something of a geographical centre, with the main shopping streets located along a thoroughfare called Bandera.
A view from the 22nd floor of the WeWork on Av. Apoquindo looking across Las Condes towards the Andes. Even in mid-November, there's still snow covering the peaks of the mountains in the distance.
Over the weekends, the absence of the working population means large portions of the historical centre take on a somewhat post-apocalyptic, desolate feel, with mounds of rubbish frequently lining the streets. Whilst it never felt unsafe, your weekends are best spent elsewhere..

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